CONSORZIO VISIT By Susan Hulme MW

Our host, the Consorzio’s technical director Daniele Rosellini, was keen to explain the key quality measures implemented for Chianti Classico DOCG as opposed to Chianti DOCG. Until 1996 only one production code existed for both wines. Since then, Chianti Classico has imposed stricter controls. In the vineyard, Chianti Classico has limited yield to 7.5 tons per hectare (t/ha) to which may be added 20% for vintage variation making a maximum total of 9t/ha. The base level, equating to 52.2hl/ha, is the lowest in all of Italy, lower than that other famous DOCG, Barolo at 8t/ha (63hl/ha). Furthermore, Chianti Classico grapes have to achieve a minimum potential alcohol of 11.5% whereas for Chianti it is 10.5%. In the finished wine, Chianti Classico must achieve a minimum alcohol of 12% while Riserva must be 12.5%. Maturation rules are also different. Chianti 'normale' can be sold in the March following the harvest whereas Chianti Classico cannot be sold earlier than one year after harvest, and Chianti Classico Riserva two years from the January after harvest. Another important point is that since 2002, there must be a minimum of 80% Sangiovese with no white grapes allowed in the blend, plus 100% Sangiovese wines are now also permitted.

There followed a brief discussion about the Chianti Classico 2000 project and the work done on clonal selection. Daniele told us they now had 34 virus-free clones that could be certified for use, but they would probably concentrate on seven Sangiovese clones and one Colorino clone. He personally recommends using a blend of clones, but mentioned that number 8, (a clone of Colorino, a variety often dismissed) was very interesting and could, he felt, be used alone.

We tasted wines from five different producers and one wine produced from a new clone described only as clone 5. There was a great variety of styles even in such a small number of wines. One wine had a very over-extracted style. It was almost opaque in appearance with hard, slightly forced and astringent tannins and a super-concentrated style – Chianti Classico on steroids! I thought clone 5 was very promising with a hint of violet adding to the sweet red fruit note on the nose and a fragrance almost of dried roses. On the palate it was very structured and nervy with firm but fine, chalky-textured tannins and lively acidity. I also enjoyed the Ormanni Borro de Diavolo Riserva 2000. It had cream and vanilla notes on the nose with a perfumed, more ethereal quality, good weight, lovely balance and assertive Sangiovese structure.

ROCCA DELLE MACIE By Helen Gillespie-Peck

As we stood in the courtyard next to the huge iron rooster rusting with age, we were given a brief introduction to the estate. This is a romantic story, of a famous Italian film producer who fell in love with Tuscany. He bought the vineyard in 1973 and took up residence in 1978. He died in 2000. Rocca delle Macie is one of the most dynamic wineries in Chianti Classico, producing four million bottles annually. Exports started in 1992/3 with the UK and later USA, Canada and Germany. Most recent penetration has been in China and Japan.

The experimental vineyard of two hectares planted with Syrah is now 3 – 4 years old. The third harvest takes place this year and even at this stage, they are not sure whether they will make the wine in the French or New World style. Research is presently being carried out on indigenous Vernaccia, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot varieties.

Back at the winery, the destalking machine interested me. Three of the blades, each at different points, had rims covered with plastic which had been screwed to the blades thus making better spacing for more fluent movement. The alcoholic fermentation is done in stainless steel and the malolactic in concrete. There were also experimental fermentation tanks that offered a system which was described as ‘thermal energy’. Barrels varied in size – 36, 95 and 100 hectolitres. French or Slovenian oak is used. French gives a spicier, sweeter and cinnamon taste to the wine; Slovenian, a finishing taste of leather and black pepper.

RUFFINO By Michelle Cherutti-Kowal

The Ruffino winery was founded in 1877 and has remained in the Folonari family since 1913. In 2000, the 3rd generation of Folonaris (two brothers) purchased a controlling interest and in 2004, took on Constellation Wines as a partner. In the past five years, 65 million euros have been invested back into the business including an expansion into the premium wine region of Friuli.

The Tentimenti Ruffino encompasses seven Tuscan estates; Gretole, Santedame and Montemasso within Chianti Classico, Lodola Nuova in Montepulciano, Greppone Mazzi in Montalcino, Poggio Casciano in Chianti Colli Fiorentini and La Solatìa in Chianti Colli Senesi. Between these properties, Ruffino owns over 1,500 hectares of land of which 600 are planted with vineyards producing 33 wines spanning all the Tuscan classifications. Our visit was to the Gretole Estate where we were treated to a food and wine tasting with Ruffino wines and olive oils.

Among the wines we sampled, we were given the opportunity to taste Ruffino’s top Tuscan wines side by side and taste the difference between the 3 regions: 2000 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro, (rated 3 bicchieri); 2000 Vino Noble Montepulciano Riserva Lodola Nuova and 1999 Brunello di Montelcino Riserva Greppone Mazzi. All were predominately Sangiovese (Chianti Classico had the least at 85%) and aged in large old botti with only the Chianti finished for a short time in barriques (Brunello having an extra year maturation). As expected, the Sangiovese character dominated - all showed layers of dried red cherries, tobacco and pepper with the Chianti being leaner and having the liveliest acidity. In contrast, the Montepulciano and Montalcino had more alcohol, sweeter fruit, more body and silky tannins.

The favourite? The Brunello had us swooning. Rumour has it that an Italian expert thinks so as well and has given it 3 bicchieri.

TENUTA DI LILLIANO By Vivienne Franks

We were welcomed at the Tenuta di Lilliano, deep in the commune of Castellina in Chianti, by a number of barking hounds. As we waited for our host of the afternoon, the architect Prince Giulio Ruspoli, I wondered if we had arrived at a winery or maybe, a dog sanctuary. No Prince appeared, but we were met by Julia who looks after the marketing of the estate. She led us through the old cellar which has a splendid library of old Chianti Classico bottles. The Slovenian oak barrels are rather historic because in 1942 thirsty German soldiers shot bullets through the wood to get to their favourite tipple.

The Estate produces about 250,000 bottles of which 60% is exported. The vines in the 50ha estate, surrounded by cypress trees, are 20 to 30 years old. The soil here is made up of a mix of the mineral 'albarese' and the marl and limestone 'galestro'.

We tasted three of their wines. Chianti Classico 2003 DOCG (95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and Merlot) was an uncomplicated fruity example, very typical of the hot vintage. Anagallis Colli della Toscana Centrale 2003 IGT (80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Merlot), a Super Tuscan, named after the red/orange five petal flower, had rather more finesse and structure. Vignacatena Colli della Toscana Centrale 2001 IGT (100% Merlot), was still young and intense, with chewy tannins.

© Vivienne Franks 2005

CASTELLO DI AMA By Quentin Sadler

Many great things are unplanned. Our visit to Castello di Ama was a turning point in my understanding of Chianti and it nearly didn’t happen. On the first day, in discussing the itinerary, Susan asked if Marco Pallanti, of Castello di Ama, would like to join us on our free evening as a guest of the AWE to tell us about his wines. Senor Pallanti turned the invitation into a visit for us with a tour, tasting and dinner, all wonderful and memorable.

When we arrived Marco Pallanti appeared interesting and vibrant; he reminded me of a young Picasso, indeed Marco has a passion for modern art. We were treated to a tasting of their Chianti Classico 2003, 2001, 1999 and 1997. All were delicious, his 2003 was one of only two from that vintage that I liked. His 2001 delivered a joyful balance of richness, spiciness and delicacy. But my star was the 1999, this had perfect balance of freshness and maturity, concentration and delicacy. It was beautiful wine, full of flavour, yet subtle. My notes mention the word 'balanced' eight times!

After this we enjoyed a stunning dinner. Simple sounding, 'Tagliatelle al ragú' was perfect, flavoursome and comforting with the Chianti Classico 2002, it was firmer than the older wines, but beautifully balanced, ready enough to enjoy and lovely with the food. Amazing roast pork and potatoes was partnered with the Chianti Classico Vigneto La Casuccia 2001, Sangiovese with 20% Merlot. This was very different, with more concentration and Merlot’s sweet fruit layering over the Sangiovese’s leafy spiciness, a wonderful wine. The cheese course consisted of Pecorini at different stages of development from young and fresh to mature – all delicious. This was partnered with L’Apparita 2000, their pure Merlot wine.

We finished with Schiacciata All’Uva, a cake containing Sangiovese grapes, and Vinsanto 1999. Made from 70% Malvasia and 30% Trebbiano, it was deliciously clean and fresh, superbly balanced and lovely with the pudding. This really exciting visit taught me just how fine Chianti Classico can be.

© Quentin Sadler 2005

AGRICOLTORI CHIANTI GEOGRAFICO By Christos Ioannou

Co-ops do it differently – or do they? After some very interesting visits to individual estates both small and large the previous day, the visit to the only co-op during this trip was bound to be unique. One of the main challenges facing any co-op must be to get the maximum fruit quality from their member growers. Our guide, Marco Totti, Commercial Director told us that they have a number of ways of working with their 200 associates, who collectively own a total vineyard area of 550 hectares. The co-op encourages members to replant vineyards by offering a programme of financial assistance and a special buying price for their grapes. For new plantings the co-op determines which rootstocks and clones are to be used, as well as vine density. The co-op pays their growers according to the quality of the grapes (judged by their sugar and acid levels as well as chemical analysis).

The co-op, founded in 1961 in Gaiole, produces two million bottles a year. It is notable for being the only co-op based in the district of Siena which produces wines in all of the five areas of Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Colli Senesi. The largest proportion of the co-op’s production by far is Chianti Classico with 600,000 bottles a year. However the two wines which particularly impressed me were the two IGT wines from the much maligned 2002 vintage:-

Ferraiolo 2002 a blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon had an almost opaque colour of black cherries; a rich nose of blackberries and blackcurrants; and a balanced mouthful of concentrated fruit with good length.

Pulleraia 2002 made from 100% Merlot had a dense cherry/ruby colour; a nose of plums, damsons and chocolate with new oak in the background; and an off-dry palate of rich black fruit with a round, soft and very long finish. At 8 euros ex-cellars, which would translate to a UK retail price of £12-13 a bottle, these represent exceptional value.

It would seem that the co-op’s quality controls are certainly paying dividends.

LA SELVANELLA By Lindsay Oram

Our lunch for the day was food and wine matching at La Selvanella, a picturesque estate owned by GIV (Gruppo Italiano Vino). We were met by Lucia Migliorini, who had the widest smile we had all ever seen. She explained that this was the farm of Mellini. It is 50 hectares including five of olive trees, the oil of which we were about to sample at lunch. The soil here is a stony albariza; the vineyards are at 400-480 metres altitude and cooled by light breezes. In 1969, La Selvanella was the first to vinify a single vineyard wine. Lunch started with a robust chickpea soup paired well with a Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Then on to the pork with two reds, a Chianti Classico, and my favourite, La Selvanella, a single vineyard Riserva with good fruit and structure. But a meal in Chianti would not be complete without Vin Santo, which was oxidised in style, and a perfect end to the lunch.

SAN FELICE By Alison Moller

The road to San Felice rose in a series of stomach-churning bends from the river valley filled with still-leafy deciduous forest to emerge through the olive groves at the vineyards situated at 400 metres. San Felice is an immaculate complex with winery and tourist accommodation side by side. All the buildings were in the honey-coloured stone and even the grape reception had coordinated tubs of flowers. The same attention to detail was shown in the winemaking, and within the winery which had an impressive array of the fashionable Gamba barrels from Piedmont.

The company does have vineyards in other parts of Tuscany but as we were guests of the Consorzio we only tasted their Chianti Classico range of three wines. San Felice Chianti Classico 2002 is made from machine-harvested grapes for the easy/early drinking market and is a good example of its type. The group was fairly evenly split in preference between Il Grigio da San Felice Riserva 2001 in the classic style with little oak influence, but with spiciness from the soil, and Poggio Rosso 2000, a single-vineyard wine from older vines, which was richer and more in the modern style in terms of oak influence. Leonardo Bellancini, the winemaker also explained very clearly the difference between the Alberese and Galestro soils we had been seeing - both are the same limestone but the former is harder because it has been subjected to greater compression. Unfortunately we were very short of time and had to curtail the visit and forego the opportunity to ask questions of one of the most articulate people we encountered on the whole tour.

CASTELLO DI BOSSI by Brett Jones

Bossi? Bossy! Running slightly late we were told that we had to reach the Castello in time as our host had a dinner engagement in Florence. So we did as we were told to be met by the charming young son of the family, Jacopo Bacci, who gave us a quick tour. The estate was bought by his father, a jeans manufacturer (Roy Rogers brand), in 1983 from the Antinori family. A property of 650ha with 125ha under vine, half of which has been replanted with a higher density of 5,500 vines per hectare. The new vineyards are a lot easier (therefore less costly) to manage and the resulting fruit is of higher quality. They use barriques for maturation, saving the botti only to store wine prior to bottling. The Bacci family also own vineyards in the Maremma district and the first two wines we tried were a Vermentino and a Morellino di Scansano. We then tasted a Rosso di Montalcino from their estate, bought in 1998. Their first Brunello will be released in 2008. The two Chiantis and the obligatory Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon IGT showed well. Jacopo told us that no 2002 was bottled - indeed, 35% of their production is sold in bulk.

The star for me was Girolano 2000. An IGT made from 100% Merlot from 40 year old vines! From an experimental vineyard planted by Antinori, the vines had originally to be registered as Sangiovese! A delicious wine showing good bright fruit supported by ripe tannins and a long finish. An excellent visit, and good to see a young son showing such knowledge and pride in his family's estate.

COLLE BERETO By Brian Wheaton MW

On Thursday morning we visited Colle Bereto, a small farm of some 50ha situated just south of Radda. We were shown around by agronomist, Bernardo Bianchi, who told us that, at the moment, the farm produced 450 hectolitres of wine per annum from ten hectares, split into Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Merlot. An accurate assessment of vineyard split was difficult to make as new cellars were being built to accommodate the production of a further 10-15ha. However, the bulk seemed to be Sangiovese, followed by Merlot and at least one hectare of Pinot, identifiable from Merlot by its much lighter foliage. The property was switching to much smaller casks for ageing, although 700-litre casks would still be used for the Riserva. Incidentally, we were told that in 2002 much its Sangiovese had had to be discarded, and no Riserva wine was made at all.

One of the most interesting wines tasted was an IGT made up of 90% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese. Selected bunches of Merlot were brought in and dried at a controlled temperature of 18°C before being pressed and added to the juice from the main harvest; it would seem that this idea is now moving to drying most of the crop. The process was started in 2002, and produces a very dark, concentrated wine, similar in style to Valpolicella’s Amarone. The estate also makes a wine from 100% Pinot Noir, aged in 700-litre casks for at least one year. One had the impression that this was just one more ongoing experiment for a very forward-looking property.

Fattoria Pile e Lamole By Andrew Bennett

There were more than a few green faces on the mini bus as we screeched our way towards Lamole via torturous bends high up in the Chianti hills around Greve. However, our last visit of the trip was certainly worth it! The Pile e Lamole estate is owned by the Santa Margherita group and is located at the crossing point between Siena and Florence districts. It consists of 141ha at altitudes of 400-500m. We saw evidence of quite a bit of experimentation in the vineyard and winery including use of the Ganimede system, which eliminates the need for pumps and reduces labour costs. Assistant oenologist Andrea Daldine made clear the estate’s philosophy - modern and forward-thinking without losing sight of tradition and typicity.

Indeed, the wines are quite traditional, more elegant than structured. We tasted a range with three different soups, traditional to the area. We had a simple bean and barley soup, a bread, cabbage and vegetable soup and finally a bread, tomato and pasta soup whose spiciness went fantastically well with their Chianti Classico Reserva 2000, Villa Vistarenni (from a nearby estate also owned by Santa Margherita). Deep purple/ruby, broad ruby rim. Quite complex nose; meaty, spicy and herbal with a lively tang. Fresh acidity with good weight of tangy, citrusy fruit, soft supple tannins, generous and mouth-coating and a long, powerful finish. A rich, quite powerful wine that shows balance and elegance.

On conclusion, the visit showed how well modern and traditional methods combine to produce wines with finesse and typicity. It also illustrated just how well simple, local cuisine can match the local Chianti Classico and was a revelation how the soups were able to counter the affects of travel sickness!!

With thanks from all the group to the Chianti Classico Consorzio for its generous hospitality, and to Barbara Scalera from Eviva Communications in the UK who liaised with the Consorzio and joined us to ensure smooth running.