AWE Trip to
South Africa
November 5th—12th 2005
Our first
evening started well, greeted
with glasses of sparkling wine by our hosts, the Cape Wine Masters, who had each
brought along different wines for us to taste. We were at Indigo Restaurant in
Gordon’s Bay whose lively little bar was crammed with the cream of the AWE and
the Cape Wine Masters. Through an arch was the cosy restaurant, the walls
covered with local art, including some striking naïve pieces á la Grandma Moses,
so there was plenty to drink, plenty of people to talk to and much to look at as
well as a beautiful sunset over False Bay, once the sandstorm had died down.
The evening worked simply; we tasted our way through the wines
that appealed and then carried on drinking whichever we enjoyed with our
dinner. The range of wines to try was very varied and fascinating, with lots of
good drinking. However the standout experience for me was the wonderful
Zonnebloem Pinotage 1982 in magnum (donated by Duimpie Bayly) – this was
terrific, a perfectly aged, delicate and characterful wine that actually tasted
earthy and reminiscent of a ripe Pinot Noir and spicily Cinsault-like.
So, great company,
new friends, great wines and then a lovely seafood dinner (can anyone tell me
why South African calamari is so good?) - a very enjoyable and wonderful start
to the trip.
© Quentin Sadler 2005

Pinotage,
the “trump card of South African wine” by
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal
The pinotage
cultivar is uniquely South African, created in 1925 by Professor Abraham Izak
Perold at Stellenbosch University. It took 16 more years of experimentation
before the first wine was made. Success was both a blessing and a curse. As in
the rest of the wine world during the 50’s and 60’s, quantity, not quality was
encouraged. The apex came in 1976 when visiting MW’s decided pinotage had no
future. Wide uprooting was followed but fortunately, some growers ignore the
Brits (can you believe that?) and in 1991, Beyers Truter was named the IWSC
Winemaker of the Year. Why? His 1989 Kanonkop Pinotage.
The Pinotage
Association celebrated its 10th anniversary this past November. It was founded
by like-minded winemakers who believed the varietal was capable of competing on
the world stage. Viticultural and vinicultural aspects of growing and vinifying
pinotage were established(1) and in 1997, the Top Ten Pinotage
Competition was launched.
With ten
years behind them, the top ten winners have had the following in common:
- Old bush vines
(30-40yrs) that grow under dryland conditions
- Medium-deep hilly
slopes having soils capable of good water retention
- A cooler south-east or
south-west aspect or a warmer north north-east aspect
Our tasting
consisted of 18 wines, single varietal pinotage and Cape Blends (pinotage and
mostly Bordeaux varietals).
Outstanding examples were:
Simonsberg
Redhill Pinotage 2003, a single vineyard wine from red soils of decomposed shale
and granite. The wine spent 18 months in new oak, 94% French, 6% American. It
had vibrant fruit on the mid-palate, and finished with spicy notes at the back.
I was surprised at the amount of new wood as the tannins were tightly knit and
well-integrated, emphasising the density of the fruit character.
Laibach
Pinotage 2004, a blend of 94% pinotage and 6% petit verdot with 16 months in new
French oak. The wine was deeply coloured with the palate showing dense fruit
characters with undertones of mint. This was a wine with huge body and smooth
well-integrated tannins.
Kanonkop
Pinotage 1998 finally gave up the familiar pinotage characteristics. The palate
was earthy and feral with sweet red fruit and spice on the back. The finish was
very dry and extremely long.
The tasting
was followed with some fine examples of South African beef, emphasising
pinotage’s ability to match with food. A fantastic finish to our first morning
in the Cape.
(1) More specific information can be obtained from
www.pinotage.co.za
Rustenberg Tasting by
Michelle Cherutti-Kowal
Ever since Robert Parker gave the
1996 Rustenberg Peter Barlow 92 points, this winery has never looked back. So
what could this Canadian say that hasn’t already been written? I decided to sit
back and let the wines speak for themselves. But even better, was listening to
Adi Badenhorst, the winemaker.
As a group
of educators, we frequently enjoy discussing technical topics like clonal
selections, American vs French oak, acidification techniques- I could go on.
Most winemakers respond with the expected answers. Few however, are as
forthright as Adi. With great patience, he answered our questions in his own
refreshing style. Here are some of my favourite responses:
- Do you believe in
clones? Not anymore, I think its bullshit.
- How about cultured
yeasts? Cultured yeasts are bullshit. If you don’t have good yeast to begin
with, you’re f****d.
Adi didn’t
have to say much more- the wines did their own singing. We tasted Brampton 2005
Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz as well as the awarding wining Rustenberg 2004
Chardonnay and 2001 Peter Barlow. All were exceptional wines but not nearly as
captivating as the barrel sample of the Rustenberg Syrah. It was deeply coloured
and very perfumed with a typical cool climate white pepper character. The wine
had a great balance of the finely knit tannins and lively acid reminiscent of
Northern Rhône.
My parting
comment to Adi as I left- Do you go on tour?
© Michelle Cherutti-Kowal
2005

The
slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain are unique with lean soils and cooling
maritime winds from nearby False Bay. Sixteen wineries are located within this
spectacular setting, a ward within the Stellenbosch region (not to be confused
with Simonsberg-Paarl - the other side of the mountain). Each farm exploits a
wide range of slopes and altitudes in order to produce wines of varying styles,
concentration and structure.
Our tasting
was located at the newest winery, Quoin Rock. Eleven of the members, each
presenting one wine, waited patiently for us to arrive (we were visiting another
member, Rustenberg, so all was forgiven).
It was an
excellent range, demonstrating the versatility of the area - from a delicate
sauvignon blanc from Uitkyk, a rich tropical chenin blanc from Knorhoek, and a
pinotage rosé from Delheim. It is on the reds that this area has built its
reputation. Those we tasted were mostly blends of both Bordeaux and Cape
varietals (the latter having some pinotage), finishing with two examples of
shiraz.
Outstanding examples:
2004 Laibach
Ladybird, certified organic and a blend of 47% merlot, 31% cabernet franc and
22% cabernet sauvignon. The wine spent 13 months in French barrels, 35% new. It
was a mouth filling wine - dense fruit, smooth and well-integrated tannins and a
long peppery finish.
2003 Warwick
Trilogy, a blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon, 15% of merlot and cabernet franc. It
spent 20 months in French oak, 60% new. The wine had smoky and spicy layers
combined with notes of black currants and damsons. This wine never lets me down,
every time I taste it!
©
Michelle
Cherutti-Kowal 2005
Ken
Forester Restaurant and tasting
by
Lindsay Oram
For our
second evening we went to 96 Winery Road, the renowned restaurant of Ken
Forester and Martin Meinhert. Ken has a passion for all things Chenin and Martin
consults for Ken as well as owning Meinhert wines.
Surprisingly 80% of the world plantings of Chenin Blanc are in South Africa and
it is often an abused variety here, but Ken fell for the variety and wanted to
make a difference by taking what was seen as an unfashionable variety and
producing some serious wines. He started 11 years ago on his quest.
We
started with Petit Chenin with 4gms residual sugar, an un-wooded youthful wine
tasting of fresh apricots. Originally sold to Oddbins, as they wanted an entry
level Chenin Blanc, it uses some brought in young vines. We asked why Chenin
seemed to be a problem - "Not for me", he replied, "but it must be allowed to
ripen fully and have the right site".
We
moved on to the Ken Forrester Range: the Chenin is barrel fermented in 400
French 1-5 year old barrels (which gives the wine a smooth apricot flavour) and
has 6gms residual sugar. This uses all his own fruit from vineyards which are
about 30 years old. Our third wine was FMC (Forrester Meinhert Chenin). The
fruit for this comes from one 7ha vineyard facing south south-west, and is made
only in good years. It is very full and honeyed and complex and contains some
noble late harvested Chenin, which is picked by trie. The two wines are barrel
fermented with wild yeasts to dryness then barrel aged; this really is Chenin
Blanc with knobs on.
Ken had
to leave us, and over dinner we had the chance to try the white wines of Uva
Mira, a boutique winery 520 above sea level, the wines of Meinhert, including
their Cape blend ‘Synchronicity’ and Yonder Hills’ Inada (meaning ‘beautiful
place’) - a good way to end a beautiful tasting.
©
Lindsay
Oram 2005

Bon Cap - the biggest
private organic winery in South Africa by
Vivienne Franks
Following a
dusty 2-hour trip from Stellenbosch to Robertson, Michelle Du Preez, wife of 7th
generation winemaker Roelf, met us in the vineyard. Her enthusiasm and passion
for the family’s wines comes across very strongly. The vineyard, a green and
lush oasis, is in the centre of a very pretty valley called Eilandia, between
Robertson and Worcester. The Red Karoo and Sandy soils are typical of the area,
and this 42 hectare farm has full organic status, certified by a Swiss company,
SGS.
Low humidity
and rainfall, combined with compost-rich soils make this area special. The cover
crop of alfalfa with cormorant, bat and penguin manure all works to provide a
balance and sustainability to the land. The main red cultivar here is Pinotage,
but Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir and Touriga
Nacional all have their place. The main white grape is Viognier, followed by
Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
Michelle
explained that the first fruit trees were planted in 1920, Pinotage vines were
planted in 1972, and both grapes and fruits were sent to the Rooiberg
co-operative. Once the new cellar was completed in 2002, the family began to
make and market their own wines. Roelf works alongside winemaker Jacques
Conradie, and together they have won numerous Michaelangelo awards for their
organic wines.
75% of Bon
Cap’s wines are exported to 13 countries and we were able to taste a cross
section of varietals and blends. Of the eleven wines we tasted my personal
favourites were the Bon Cap Organic Pinotage and the Bon Cap Organic Viognier,
both food-friendly, expressive and flavoursome wines.
©
Vivienne Franks 2006

Graham
Beck by Christos
Ioannaou
Graham
Beck has landholdings in Robertson Valley covering a whopping 3500 ha, though
only 168 ha of this is actually planted under vine. As those of us who did not
have sun hats or sun cream soon found out, Robertson can be blisteringly hot.
Indeed viticulturalist Marco Ventrella, who gave us a fascinating tour in the
vineyards, described the area as semi-arid, and pointed out that the annual
rainfall averages a paltry 200-250mm.
Robertson
soils are some of the oldest in the world with an estimated age of 4-500 million
years, and the whole area used to be sub-sea. After mentioning that nearly all
of his vines are grafted onto R110 rootstock (which is good for resistance
against drought and the high salinity levels in the soil), Marco gave us a
fascinating insight into the latest developments in water management and its
effect on fruit quality.
A procedure
called Partial Root Zone Drying seeks to fool the vines that they are in a state
of crisis, which encourages them to produce better fruit. Essentially, instead
of the normal one irrigation pipe along the middle of a row of vines, two pipes
are laid, one each side of and a few inches from the vines. The pipe on one side
is turned on, but on the other side no water is introduced which fools the vine
into thinking that it is in a drought situation. Consequently the stressed vine
hovers on the edge of shutting down in the interests of self-preservation, and
by doing this diverts energy from its foliage into its grapes. The alternate
pipes are sporadically turned on and off to continue the process. So although
vines are experts in recording every aspect of their growing environment, man
can fool a vine in order to get the desired result of best fruit quality
possible!
©
Christos Ioannaou 2005

Springfield Estate
by Quentin Sadler
This was
one of those visits - the winemaker spoke sense, he was modest, the place
was lovely and the wines thrilled me. Our host, owner and winemaker Abri Brewer
amused me from the beginning and I loved his attitude. “Customers are funny
things”, he said, well, amen to that. “We make wine to drink, any left over we
can sell to people”, he said later, so he does not find out what the market
wants first then – music to my ears. He also told us that he was not making
commercial “flappy, floppy wines” and we have all had some of those, haven’t we?
We tasted
the range starting with their 2 Sauvignon Blancs: Life From Stone 2005 which was
stunningly mineral and stoney, while Special Cuvée 2005 was richer and slightly
creamy. Both were superb, the 2 best Sauvignons of the trip to me and what
amazed me was that in this hot area he had to remove acidity (does he sell it on
to people who need to add?). Wild Yeast Chardonnay was amazingly creamy, ripe,
balanced and complex – quite delicious. Then 3 vintages of Chardonnay Methode
Ancienne, 1999, 2004 and 2005 all wonderful, mouthfilling, honeyed and rich yet
fresh with lively acidity too, perfectly balanced wines with integrated oak.
His reds
were even more exciting: barrel samples to be used in Work of, Cabernet
Sauvignon 2004, Cabernet Franc 2004 and Merlot 2004 were all text-book examples,
they had mint where they should, cassis where they should, plums where they
should, coffee and earth where they should together with fine tannins and
concentrated fresh fruit.
Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 was a hedonistic delight, juicy and
succulent while delicate and fresh with fine tannins – lovely right now.
Cabernet Sauvignon Methode
Ancienne 1999 was rich and elegant while the pièce de résistance was Work of
Time 2001, a complex and fine Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot blend.
Abri declared that
“elegance is what you call thin wine that’s expensive.”
Well
his are certainly not thin and they are not really expensive and I for one
consider all his wines elegant.
© Quentin Sadler 2005

We arrived
at Laborie to a most welcome glass of Cap Classiqe Laborie Blanc de Blanc.
Piet Momberg
(Business Executive: Americas, UK, Far East) introduced Tania Joubert,
(winemaker), Penelope Horwood (Communications Specialist), Karen Veysey (Wine
Educator) and Vanessa Schreyer, (Marketing Manager), and gave a short talk about
KWV. He mentioned KWV’s launch into the home market (May 2004) and its move into
the 21st century as a market-driven, brand-focussed, commercial
company.
We were able
to taste some of the Cathedral Cellar range: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, 2003
Chardonnay, the 2001 vintage Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz and also
the 2003 Roodeberg and the 2002 Laborie Jean Taillefort.
Having
tasted and enjoyed many vintages of Cathedral Cellars’ wines during past years,
the most intriguing wine for me was the Sauvignon Blanc. It did not immediately
appeal. I spoke to the winemaker who said she wanted to make something a little
different from the previous vintages. 50% of the wine had been matured in 2nd
fill oak for 2 months, to add some complexity. The “stats” were interesting:
15.54%abv, RS 1.97, TA 5.89, pH 3.59. It seemed a little unfair to judge the
wine so early in its life, so I look forward to tasting it again in 6-12 months
time.
© Trevor
Elliott 2005

Capaia by
Susan Hulme MW
I was
determined to visit Capaia on this trip, having been offered the opportunity of
a private visit by the Von Essen family last time I was in South Africa for Cape
Wines 2004. Tibor Gál would have been there then and I longed to go but felt
duty-bound to stick to my sponsor’s programme. Since Tibor’s untimely death I
regretted not going even more than I did at the time.
Capaia was
our first visit that day in the new ward of Philadelphia out towards the
Darling/Swartland direction but much closer to Cape Town, looking back on Table
Mountain. Capaia started as a project between the Von Essen’s and Lodovico
Antinori of Ornellaia hence the name – ‘Cap’ from Cape and ‘aia’ from Ornellaia.
Vines were planted in 2000 and they were all Bordeaux varieties. There is even
some Petit Verdot which apparently does well here.
After
meeting the young winemaker, Mark van Buuren and vineyard manager Matthys Bothma,
we piled into jeeps to look at the vineyards and were driven up to the Skalikop
(Stoney Hill) vineyard, a windy hill of uncompromising-looking shale planted
with Cabernet Franc where tender, young-looking vines shivered and tried to hide
from the wind. They hope to get Cabernet Franc to crop at 1 bunch per vine here,
if they are lucky. They don’t use systemics or insecticides in keeping with an
‘as natural as possible’ philosophy and are experimenting with closer density
planting at 5,500 vines per ha to give protection from the wind and to increase
overall yield while keeping a low yield per vine.
18 million
years ago all of these soils came from the Karoo (250 million years ago, a vast
inland sea) and we were told this area has the oldest soils in the Cape while
being only 10km as the crow flies from Cape Town. Daytime temperatures can rise
to 38o C and drop to between 9-15 o C at night. How’s that for diurnal
difference! The physical austerity of this vineyard was almost like encountering
a presence which fragile-looking vines struggled to survive.
We briefly
toured the winery: some of the special features included lots of 50hl oak
fermenters and a piece of equipment like a ski-lift to gently carry the 8kg
containers of grapes and fill tanks from above.
A tasting
of 5 wines followed:
The Blue
Grove Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2005 – It was stylish and elegant with none of the
over-the-top intensely herbaceous notes many Sauvignon Blanc producers seem
tempted by. There followed a tasting of Blue Grove Hill red blend 2004 and 2005
but the outstanding wines for me were Capaia itself, their flagship blend. The
Capaia 2004 was rich and multilayered on the nose with perfume and ripe fruits
and on the palate it showed fantastically smooth tannins with the beautiful,
seamless structure of truly great wines made by a master craftsman.
I remember
tasting Capaia 2003 at Cape Wine 2004 and thinking this was one of the best
South African red wines I had ever tasted. When Harpers asked me for my top 10
South Africa red wines, I didn’t include it because it was a barrel sample and I
had only tasted it once at the show. I wish now that I had, as this is a great
wine and deserves all the recognition it can get.
©
Susan Hulme 2006

Now well
into the second half of our odyssey we eagerly awaited our visit and tasting in
Darling. Situated to the due north of Cape Town, hugging the cold Atlantic Ocean
on the west coast, we found a quartet of individual wineries working in close
harmony to extol the virtues of succinct winemaking in the time-honoured way.
The tasting
was held at Cloof, where an open-sided mini-marquee had been constructed beside
the welcoming pool – it was nearing 30 degrees and we had eleven samples of wine
to taste from the four neighbouring wineries so keeping cool was a must!
Oscar
Foulkes of Cloof, who brilliantly and enthusiastically swooned over his good
fortune to be making wine in this special district, delivered the overview of
Darling. Redeeming factors include the close proximity to the icy Atlantic
Ocean, the combination of dry lands, granite based hilly locations and the
extraordinary differences between day and night temperatures, all offer the
winegrower an unrivalled opportunity to make wines of serious quality and
breeding. I couldn’t wait!
The pick of
the wines shown were: Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Trellised,
south facing and Atlantic influenced. This 7 tonne crush ekes a mouthful of
guava, citrus and minerals that plays with the palate, leaving it begging for
more! Absolute drinkability - classy stuff and brilliant with the fantastic
barbecued Yellow Fin Tuna!
Ormonde
Chardonnay 2003,
Barrel fermented and barrel aged in selected French Oak makes for a classic
Burgundian style of Chardonnay. Toasty with hazelnut notes over a ripe rich
autumn fruit compote and balanced citrus finish. One of the very best
Chardonnays I tasted in the Cape.
Cloof
Cellar Blend 2004,
Pinotage, Cab Sav, Tinta Barocca and Shiraz make for a meaty, spicy wine of some
distinction. Funky almost “Portuguese” note surprised and delighted.
Darling
Cellars Onyx Kroon 2002,
Syrah, Pinotage, Grenache and Cinsault fermented together for a voluptuous top
end shiny-bright star of a wine. Ridiculously complex, with dark fruits yielding
to chocolate and raisins over a silky tannic finish.
The two
overriding factors of these extraordinary wines were their diversity and daring.
I felt I had, with these four wineries, discovered a “whole new world” of South
African wine, one that appears completely at home with its unique geographical
position.
©
Stephen Barrett 2005

Swartland Tasting by
Brian Davis
Following the al fresco
tasting at Cloof, Darling we made the brief journey to the Meerhof winery, where
nine Swartland wineries were waiting us to show us their wares! Thankfully the
tasting was carried out in the cool Meerhof cellars.
Swartland
district lies some 100km north east of Cape Town and comprises pockets of
vineyards among the foothills of the four main mountain areas.The soil is mainly
Malmesbury shale and although this is a dry and warm area, the Atlantic and the
altitude help to combat the heat.
The main
observation was the enthusiasm of the winemakers. In general the wines were well
crafted and could be considered easy drinking with some notable exceptions
listed below by each winery.
| Meerhof |
Rosé 2004
|
| |
Balanced acidity
with fresh fruity flavour |
|
Porterville |
Porter Mill Station
Pinotage 2004 |
| |
Soft easy drinking
Pinotage – vibrant plumy fruit with a touch of tannin |
|
Lammershoek |
Two gems here! |
| |
Roulette Blanc 2004 |
| |
A Viognier
16%/Chenin 54%/Chardonnay 11%/Harslevelu 19% blend that sang
individuality and class ! Complex, balanced acidity, long and very
Moorish! |
| |
Roulette 2004 |
| |
A blend of Shiraz
74%/Cabernet 10%/Grenache 14% and Viognier 2%. Full on fruit and
complexity. |
| Pulpit
Rock |
Pinotage 2004 |
| |
Needs time but well
structured and classy with both bright fruit and tannins which need time
to soften. |
|
Swartland |
Eagle Crest
Cab/Merlot 2004 |
| |
Easy drinking full
bodied red. |
|
Klooverburg |
Chardonnay 2005 |
| |
A burgundian style
chardonnay with delicate oak, tropical fruit and good length. |
|
Citrusal |
Goue Vallei Pinotage
2003 |
| |
Modern style for
everyday drinking – ready now. |
|
Babylon’s Peak |
Babylon’s Peak
Babylon 2003 |
| |
An equal blend of
Pinotage , Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot ( Cape blend) . Spicy red
fruit, good balance and length. Drinking well now but a keeper! |
| |
Stephan’s Blend 2004 |
| |
A Cabernet, Merlot,
Pinotage and Carignan blend. One for the cellar! |
|
Allesveloren |
Certainly all was
not lost with these wines. Known mainly as a port producer but… |
| |
Allesveloren Tinta
Barocca 2004 |
| |
New French oak to
the fore with rich aromatic fruit and a long finish- almost Douro like! |
| |
Allesveloren Port
2000 |
| |
Made from Portuguese
varieties . Rich and opulent and a good example of SA port. |
© Brian Davis 2005

Western
Wines Presentation and Dinner
by Jayne
Bridges
It matters little how exotic the venue, on every
wine trip there will be a few memorable visits and some that don’t quite live up
to one’s expectations. Frequently it is the ‘Big Boys’ who are the
disappointments, so I confess to being a bit ambivalent about attending a dinner
to be hosted by Western Wines. After all, as Kumala is probably the only wine
that many UK consumers have ever tasted, no doubt we were going to get the Hard
Sell.
My fears were proved groundless. Not only did we
have an excellent dinner but James Reid proved a charming and amusing host.
His presentation was hilarious but underneath his
laid back appearance, even for allowing support from the UK, he must be
something of a miracle worker. After all, since he first arrived in 1997 to head
up Western Wines South African Office, with nothing but a mobile phone and a lap
top computer, Kumala now sells well over 2 million cases and has broken into the
UK’s Top 10 wines.
Not content with the success of their entry
wines, Kumala has now launched their successful Reserve Range and goes from
strength to strength, giving Winemaker Ben Jordaan the opportunity to display
his skills on many levels.
Now that Charles Back has teamed up with Western
wines to create a new line there seems to be no limit to their ambitions. Added
to the rest of the South Africa portfolio, it is little wonder that Mike Paul
seems so cheerful. He has plenty to celebrate.

Elgin
by Colin Wills
Elgin is
the only wine ward in South Africa with natural boundaries, with its mountains
and hills. This was one bus journey where the scenery more than made up for the
early start. Among the wineries present were Thandi, a successful Black
Empowerment Project, and Paul Cluver, who helped to set Thandi up. At this
tasting Elgin vintners presented their wines to us, demonstrating their varied
terroirs and their uniquely cool climate. Each of the wineries included had a
unique character, but all emphasised structure and fruit balance. Reminiscent of
California’s Ridge wine’s slogan – ‘No wimpy wines’ – was Oak Valley’s ‘No
Floppy Flavours’ and it was certainly true of their Sauvignon Blanc! The
Sauvignon Blancs from Iona and Elgin Vintners were different again and were
another part of the unofficial Sauvignon Blanc seminar that for me was a running
theme through the trip.
We saw here
a variety of wine making and growing techniques as well as many grape varieties
in this seminar. One highlight was Paul Cluver’s Gewurztraminer, made from early
picked grapes, giving lean and dry, floral flavours. Thandi’s whole selection
showed very well and their Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon impressed at their
price points. The six growers represented, with their different terroirs,
certainly demonstrated their diversity.
We then
moved to Thandi’s Estate, where we were treated to a splendid lunch in their
friendly restaurant. Run by Quakers from Yorkshire, we were made to feel at home
with some of the winemakers from Elgin joining us to discuss the conditions in
which they grow their wines. There was a brief power cut, which everyone seemed
to think nothing of.
From here
we went to Elim, to Flagstone Wines, a relatively new company, whose home
vineyards have to contend with cold winds and a windchill factor that extends
the growing season. Boss Bruce Jack has to be one of the most energetic wine
trade people I have encountered, with a restless curiosity and a craft based,
scientific approach to winemaking. The only person I have met with an MSc in
Trichloroanisole, he gave us a potted history of the taint, explaining that
until the first World War it did not exist, because its precursor, a fungicide,
did not exist. Wine is not the only affected foodstuff; Marks and Spencer have
detected it in chicken!
He had also
thought about his audience; suggesting several questions we should ask students.
Bruce Jack also suggested that Brettanomyces was encouraged by
micro-oxygenation, and that brett itself is different in different countries.
Never one to shirk controversy, Jack has a theory that Pinotage is like
Kilimanjaro: an African challenge, though he did concede that fewer people had
died trying to conquer Pinotage.
What of the
wines? They have a lot of Jack’s personality, being vibrant and quirky, as well
as extremely well made. They have names like the ‘Music Room’ as a reminder of
the house that Bruce grew up in and where his mother taught piano. Finally, the
tasting broke up when the first brand new piece of equipment that Flagstone ever
bought arrived. A gleaming white truck soon had a schoolboy-ish Bruce at the
wheel driving round the yard of the old Dynamite Factory where this happy and
exuberant company is based.
© Colin Wills 2006

Constantia Valley
by Michael Buriak
This was the last visit of the
itinerary - and a most worthwhile visit it was to round off a most wonderful,
informative, enjoyable week in South Africa. Very appropriately and sensibly,
winemakers Adam Mason of Klein Constantia, who headed the talk and tasting,
André Rousseau of Constantia Uitsig and Ruth Penfold of Steenberg Vineyards (so
fortunate to have three winemakers present all at the same time) - organised a
tasting of just nine wines of which eight were Sauvignon Blancs, the exception
being a Semillon based wine from Constantia Uitsig.
A very informative talk was
given by Adam Mason, with relevant interjected comments from André and Ruth
before the eventual tasting. One new piece of information seemed to materialise.
Generally speaking, grapes are harvested by hand in South Africa, with very
little machine picking. However, in the Constantia Valley, and in particular at
Steenberg Vineyards, a machine harvester is used which can cope with the
steepness of the slopes. It is a French machine called a "pellenc" which can
harvest the steep planted Sauvignon Blanc incredibly well - the most planted
grape in the valley. Apparently with this machine, harvests can be planned
easier just prior to picking, as it is speedy, efficient, causing little damage
to the grapes - grapes being normally gathered in the coolness of the early
hours of the morning - hand picking being far too slow. And as for the battles
amongst ladybirds, microscopic wasps and mealy bugs - well that's another story
altogether.
Anyway, on to the tasting - only
nine wines, very carefully selected. Eight Sauvignon Blancs and one
Semillon/Sauvignon blend - it would be unfair for me to say which was the best
as they had almost that Central Vineyards, Loire Valley minerality. The one
blend shown was from Constantia Uitsig, a 2003, screw-cap, 14.5% alcohol, 72%
Semillon (fermented for six months in barrel), with 28% Sauvignon Blanc -
intense, nutty, lanolin.
The eight Sauvignon Blancs were
as follows:
| 2005 Groot
Constantia, 13.5% alcohol - vibrant citrus with crisp apple notes. |
| 2005 Klein
Constantia, 13.5% alcohol - pulpy apple skin fruit with minerals. |
| 2005 Klein
Constantia "Perdeblokke", Single Estate, screw-cap, 13.5% alcohol -
intense herbaceous flavours. |
| 2005
Buitenverwachting, 13% alcohol - apple grape pulp with minerals. |
| 2004
Buitenverwachting Husseys Vlei "HV", 13% alcohol - very similar to a
Semillon on the nose, oily, waxy, green cabbage aromas. |
| 2005 Constantia
Uitsig, screw-cap, 13% alcohol - almost a New Zealand style with ripe
apple, citrus, asparagus notes. |
| 2005 Steenberg, 13%
alcohol - gooseberry, limes, lemon fresh fruits. |
| 2005 Steenberg
Reserve, 14% alcohol - freshly cut grass with minerals, pebbles, flinty
qualities - alcoholic limes. |
This was a most appropriate
and fitting end to conclude a splendid week.
© Michael Buriak 2006
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