Editorial by Susan Hulme MW

"Wine education is essential" says Kym Tolley in an short interview he gives to Paul Quinn in this edition of Awe Inspiring News. Well, I know we probably don't need convincing about that but in these challenging times it is worth restating the value of what we do. 

I firmly believe that wine knowledge and training helps retailers in both the on- and off-trade maintain market share by adding value. As for consumers, wine tastings and courses bring them more enjoyment and appreciation as well as enabling them to spend their money more wisely. Simple pleasures such as wine may seem superfluous, but in gloomy times they are more important than ever.

We always like to practice what we preach and our members are as usual busy educating themselves; this edition contains two AWE trip reports, covering recent developments in the Loire and the Roussillon. Closer to home, some of our members paid a visit to Stanlake Park Wine Estate and ended up helping harvest the grapes.

Two independent trips are also featured: Rosie Bainbridge takes a party of seven wine students to visit the Italian town of Ascoli Piceno and Carolyn Bosworth-Davies meets old and new friends in Penedès. 

Earlier in the year, we organised a seminar notable for the fact that it took place outside London. A Voice Coach Seminar in Birmingham was paired with a Lanson Champagne tasting and seminar.  We were pleased to be able to organise something for those members who don't live and work in the south of England and the joint nature of the event even helped to attract some southerners north of Watford. The Voice Coach Seminar was full of tips about projecting and protecting our voices, something which will prove very useful as we continue to promote the worth of wine education.

© Susan Hulme MW 2008

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Chairman’s Column by Richard Bampfield MW  
Five months in and, believe it or not, the pleasure I felt at being elected Chairman of the AWE has turned to genuine excitement at the prospects.  Of course, experienced campaigners will point out that this is still the honeymoon period, basking in the glory of my new status.  Well, long may it last but, in the meantime, I dare say you expect me to explain what your Council has been up to when not celebrating its election.

New members

On the membership front, we have two new members since May, Barry Howarth (in the North-West) and Ron Taylor (Hong Kong), and there are almost 25 candidates at various stages of application, assessment and coercion.  This is not to suggest that expanding the membership is necessary for its own sake: quite simply, the number of expressions of interest is a useful measure of the regard in which the AWE is held.

Key objectives

Seminars, trips and sponsored tastings have all been continuing, and an expansion of the latter is one of our key objectives for the next couple of years.  The principal reason for the questionnaire which most members have recently completed is to reach a better understanding of the range of activities offered by the membership so we can sell our services more effectively to potential clients.  I am delighted at the number of responses, with about three quarters of members replying, a number much higher than usual in this sort of exercise.  Naturally, there is not agreement in every area, but at least now we have a much better idea of broadly what the members both provide and would like its Council to deliver.

EWEA

I am meeting Pepi Schuller MW, driving force behind the new European Wine Educators Association, in early November and will find out more about their plans.  We have also become aware of a consultation exercise on permitted serving sizes for non pre-packaged wines, beers and spirits (samples, as far as we are concerned) being conducted by the National Weights and Measures Laboratory and are sending a response on behalf of the AWE.

The last 5 months have brought home to me just how many people are actively involved in different facets of the AWE’s activities: we should all be grateful to those who continue to find time to give voluntary time to the AWE as well as running their own businesses.  There can be little doubt that demand for our services will be affected by the state of the economy (potentially in both directions) and we will be making sure that, as an organisation, we do our best to keep wine education high on the agenda.  All members can do their part by being proud of our association and the work that we do – our members are our best ambassadors and are best placed to make us more attractive both to new clients and to new members.

© Richard Bampfield MW 2008

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AWE Loire Trip, 25th - 28th June 2008

AOC Chinon; Château de Putille; Domaine de la Bergerie; Closerie de la Picardie; Château la Varière; AOC Saumur-Champigny; AOC Bourgeuil; AOC St. Nicolas de Bourgueil

AOC Chinon Producers by Christos Ioannou

Somewhat weary from our early flight from Stansted, after settling into our hotel in Tours we enjoyed an excellent lunch at Chez Georges. For our first appointment we then headed west to Chinon, which with 2000 hectares of vineyards is the largest of the specialist red wine appellations of the Loire. Chinon finds itself at the confluence of several rivers, including the Loire and the Vienne, and so the average annual rainfall is quite high for the area.

Caves Painctes

The dramatic setting for our visit was the Caves Painctes (pictured left), where we were greeted by 10 producers whose stalls were laid out in the largest subterranean hall, where receptions are often held. The famous writer Rabelais was said to have played in the Caves as a child and his fan club still holds solemn chapter here four times a year.

The Caves form a network of underground passages and rooms under the medieval fortress of the town, and are now headquarters to the Syndicats des Vins de Chinon. They are a perfect example of the geology of the area, in particular the chalky soil.

Soil types

The chairman of the Chinon growers explained that chalk is found mainly in the hillsides and is one of the three main soil types. The other two are silt terraces consisting of gravel and sand, and then plateaux consisting mainly of flint clays and sands. The character, weight and richness of the wines is very much dependent on the soil type in which they are planted – the wines with most structure and body come from the chalky soils, the lightest wines come from the plateaux, and the alluvial sandy areas result in a style in between these two.

The tasting was interesting in demonstrating a range of styles and vintage variation – 2006 was a good vintage as long as a careful selection was made. 2007 was a very difficult year because the unseasonally hot weather at the beginning of April encouraged an early flowering, but when the weather turned colder again the flowering became very uneven.

For me the most impressive wine was Domaine de la Noblaie Les Chiens-Chiens 2006, made by young winemaker Jerome Billard (pictured above, on the right), who has worked at Château Petrus, and Dominus in California. It had fragrant, perfumed aromas of red berries, and milk chocolate; and on the palate medium bodied, elegant, ripe tannins (which would benefit from another 12 months bottle age), and good length.

On the way out Tom Jarvis and Paul Quinn posed by the oversize bottle of 1961 Chinon , but sadly there was none of this left to taste!

Photos and text © Christos Ioannou 2008

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Château de Putille by Tom Jarvis

Our first full day began early with a yawnful 7am drive from our Hotel in Tours to the Anjou AC, and a 9am visit to Pascal and Genevieve Delaunay's Château de Putille at La Pommeraye, in the Coteaux de La Loire zone 5km from Layon. Wines produced include Anjou Blanc, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, sweeter Anjou Coteaux de La Loire, Rosé de Loire and Cabernet d'Anjou, Anjou Gamay, Anjou Rouge & Villages and a couple of Méthodes Traditionelles sparklers.

Geology

M. Delaunay (pictured below) began the visit with an interesting explanation of the local geology, which is like that in Brittany. The base is mainly schist, but there is a wide diversity including limestone and coal. 300 million years ago the area was tropical, then a coral sea, with red sand and volcanic soils. Periods of tropical forest were responsible for the layers of coal. Over time the different layers became folded almost to the vertical, leaving this variety of soils in the region. The coal was combined with local stone to produce a forerunner of concrete from which many of the local buildings are constructed.

Matching varieties to soil

Initial plantings in the area focussed on Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon on the slopes. These are very steep and dry, hence the selection of Cabernet Sauvignon over Cabernet Franc, which was planted more on the flatter areas after the War. M. Delaunay is happy that his vineyards are situated almost exclusively on the Coteaux.

Cabernet Franc does not like conditions to be too dry, as the grapes get too small and the skins too thick. Ideally Pascal would like to irrigate his drier soils but of course he is not allowed. On the schist areas around his house he has planted Cabernet Franc. Here there is generally around 30cm of topsoil. For red wines he has targeted areas where there is enough topsoil to give the vines sufficient water, but not so deep that the vines can get too wet, risking bursting the grapes. The vines planted in deeper soil closest to the house tend to provide fruit for rosé. Stonier soils are marked out for Chenin Blanc.

It can be very difficult to achieve optimum ripeness given the northern latitude of the appellation. M. Delaunay admits that 20 years ago producers were not that focussed on terroir and their wines showed lots of capsicum and green tannins. Since then there has been a lot more emphasis on site selection in order to achieve full ripeness. Further winemaking information came via the tastings at the end of the visit, but we went in to quite a bit more detail about viticultural practices.

Grass cover

Vines are planted to a density of 5000/ha with grass cover since 1993. We learned a lot about grass cover on this visit. As well as competing with the vine for water, the grass cover has a very important role in stabilising the soil on the coteaux, where it is planted in channels between the vine rows down which excess water can run. M. Delaunay's parents generation often found a large pile of rain-eroded soil at the bottom of the vine rows, with the vine trunks at the bottom of the slope buried and the root systems at the top exposed. This no longer happens. The grass on the slopes is left uncontrolled to anchor the soil, but that on the flatter slopes gets one low herbicide treatment per year. A particularly thirsty large-bladed grass variety, Grande Fetuque is used on the wettest soil, a less thirsty Fetuque is used on medium soils, and Paturin is used on the driest slopes as it dies in drought conditions when the vines do not require competition for water.

Training

Vines are now trained to 1.8m (6ft) to allow sufficient leaf growth and sufficient sunshine to reach the grapes, plus plenty of air circulation to combat mildew. Defoliage is done mechanically. This new training regime produces fruit with an extra 1.5 degrees potential alcohol; chaptalisation has not been used for the last two decades - now that they are reaching 14 or 14.5 degrees the problem is that they might in warmer years get too much potential alcohol.

Copper

In terms of chemical treatments they use a copper spray to combat mildew, once a year in August. This is at a very low level as M. Delaunay feels that, this far north, the copper slows fruit maturation and can reduce the aromatic potential of the grape. The soils are already heavy in copper due to the use of sprays in previous generations.

Vinification

After a very informative visit to the vineyards it was back to the house for the tasting and to look at the vinification side. In general, methods depend on the ripeness of the grapes coming in. The Anjou Rouge comes from a mix of terroirs, from grapes harvested at maximum ripeness. There is a maceration of 5 to 7 days after which the tanks are heated to 25 degrees to accelerate fermentation for a further 5 days. M. Delaunay is looking for a supple style with more colour and less tannic extraction as the must heats up. With red wine it is dangerous to have too long a fermentation in case it stops; he is also looking to avoid malolactic fermentation as both increase the risk of brettanomyces and other bacterial infections. When he started out M. Delaunay was advised that Anjou Villages had much more tannin than Anjou Rouge and should receive a much longer maceration; now he differentiates between the two on the basis of terroir rather than vinification, though he is looking for more structure in the Villages.

Wines tasted

Anjou Rouge 2007 100% Cab Franc. Leafy cherry nose and quite a round palate.

Anjou Villages 2007 tank sample 50% Cab Sauv 50% Cab Franc. Ripe fruit and a deeper more muscular structure

Anjou Villages Cuvée des Presses 2005 Tank Sample 100% Cab Sauv. Cherry fruit and a solid tannic structure

Anjou Villages Cuvée Prestige 2005 Tank Sample 100% Cab Sauv. Low yielding vines 35 hl/ha. Oak aged press wine. Deep nose of  blackcurrant, herb and spice, and a tannic palate. A vin de garde which needs more ‘garding’.

Anjou Gamay 2007 Yield of 55 hl/ha. One week of carbonic maceration. Soft and refreshing; the carbonic maceration effect is not overwhelming.

© Tom Jarvis 2008

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Domaine de la Bergerie, by Brian Wheaton MW

On Thursday 26th we visited the Domain de la Bergerie, just outside the village of le Champ-sur-Layon, and about two miles south of the River Layon itself. We were met by Monsieur Yves Guégniard , who runs the Domaine with his wife Marie-Annick. Monsieur Guégniard took us out into some 40 year old vines, explaining that a specialized kind of grass was grown between the rows to suck up and retain moisture, as the soil layer was comparatively thin (about 2 – 3 feet), and the flaky limestone underneath allowed water to drain away quite quickly. However, it is a balancing act, as irrigation is not allowed, and they don’t want too much water as it would burst the berries.

In the vineyard

His practice is to prune really short during the early spring, and de-bud in early summer. He counts the number of bunches per vine, firstly of course to comply with EC Regulations, but secondly for quality; the normal yield was 50 hl/ha for ordinary Anjou, and 40 – 45 h/h for Anjou Villages. Recent good weather had reduced the current risk of mildew, but he was now dusting the crop with sulphur to protect against oidium. Monsieur Guégniard  went on to say that, like many growers in the region, he de-leafed the eastern-facing side of his vines to allow better access to the rising sun (which also helped photosynthesis) but not the other side, to avoid possible scorching of the grapes. Canopy management like this is carried out initially by machine, but later finished off by hand, and ‘ripeness’ was in fact a mantra that we heard throughout our visit.

Facts & Figures

M. Guégniard has 36 hectares of vines, of which 12 ha are Cabernet – two thirds Cabernet Franc and one third Cabernet-Sauvignon. The remaining 24 ha are Chenin Blanc, plus a little Grolleau and Gamay. In the last 10 years, he has observed that the harvest is, on average, markedly earlier. He picks his Chenin by hand, and for some ACs, this is mandatory.

For some white wines, such as Savennieres, Coteaux du Layon and the Quarts de Chaume, Monsieur Guégniard  allows a full three days of cold maceration at around 100C, followed by a quick, five day fermentation at around 28oC., which is still quite cool by some standards. His total production is around 200,000 bottles. He also explained that he usually picked twice, with about 4 days between picking, as in ‘07, but sometimes the gap can be as much as 10 days; the aim is to pick grapes with skins as thin as possible before actual botrytis.

Tasting

After our tour, we were given a tasting, starting with Anjou Blanc Les Pierres Girard 2006. It had less than 3gm/lit. of sugar (chaptalisation is never practiced in the area), but a full flavour and enough acidity to carry through to the finish – quite remarkable for a relatively cheap wine. Next was a Savennières 2005. Skin maceration was carried out with 50% of the crop, giving it a slightly stalky nose. The wine had 4.5gm./lit. of sugar, and 13.5% of alcohol, and came from 15 year old vines.

The reds started off with an Anjou Rouge, La Cerisaie 2007. It had a lovely cherry nose, a good, strong flavour and (vital for the UK market) not too much acidity or tannin. This wine will be launched in September of this year. The next two wines were much bigger, and were both Anjou-Villages. The first, Le Chant du Bois 2005, was 80% Cabernet-Sauvignon and had no less than 21 days maceration: it will in my opinion take at least 5 – 7 years to come around. The second wine, ‘Evanescence’ 2005, was 100% Cabernet-Sauvignon and had spent one year in wood, of which one third was new. The wine had good balance, but should need at least 10 years to reach its peak.

The last two wines were dessert wines – the first a Coteaux du Layon Rablay, Clos de la Giradieres, had 120gm/lit. of sugar, and had a creamy, apple-fresh fruit flavour with an absolutely clean finish. The wine from this area can come from six different villages. Finally, we were shown an absolutely superb wine from the Quarts de Chaume with 200gm/lit. of natural sugar. There are only 19 producers in this select area, and this wonderful wine is only rarely seen in the UK.        

© Brian Wheaton MW 2008

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Closerie de la Picardie by Phil Cooke

After lunch on Thursday afternoon we visited Closerie de la Picardie which is in Anjou. We were greeted by the owners, Hortense and Benoît Rocher. Their estate extends to 21ha, and has been in the family for four generations.

Dead Arm

Their home and wine making facilities are surrounded by vineyards, and that is where that we spent much of our visit. The vines looked well kept and very healthy, but we soon learned that he was faced with serious problems: the much feared Dead Arm had arrived.

Perhaps we had all heard of this nasty disease during our wine studies, but here it was a reality.

As we walked along the track Benoît pointed to gaps and explained how dead arm was gradually killing off his vines. Much discussion, question and answer followed. We learnt that there is currently no known way of halting the spread of the disease. Sometimes the vine dies slowly, but sometimes in just a few days. Until recently an arsenic-based chemical had been used to control the disease, but the treatment is so noxious that the EU has now banned it, so chemical methods are no longer available. We also learnt that the number of vines being killed is increasing rapidly; each year being progressively worse.

Infected

Despite having to cope with reducing yields, for all the wrong reasons, our host was remarkably cheerful. Later, after talking to other vignerons in the region, we discovered that many vineyards were infected. We had been fortunate to visit someone who was prepared to talk about it. It seems that the disease likes a damp environment and being in a sub-region that favours noble rot his vineyards are very vulnerable.

As we walked through the vineyard we were shown experimental plantings and learnt about the importance of not using copper-based treatments when the grapes were in the critical formation stage, as they were when we saw them.

Minimum intervention

Benoît explained that growing grass between the rows and de-weeding around the vines was a particularly important aspect of achieving a healthy vineyard with minimum chemical intervention. With just one full time helper he was keen to reduce the work involved and he was planning to evaluate the latest machines the following week.

In the winery

After long and very interesting discussions on vineyard management we were shown around the winemaking facilities. Here, once again, we discovered examples of personal innovation. For instance one room had an array of tile-lined storage “tanks”, all below ground level; lots of thermal inertia, and ideal for storage and malolactic fermentation.

Tasting

We then moved on to discussing and tasting his wines. The range includes red, white, rosé, sparkling and sweet, whites from the AOC of Coteaux du Layon and single vineyard sweeties in the AOC of Bonnezeaux. We tasted across the range. The Anjou Rouge 2006 had achieved Ambassadeur status in 2008. It was well-structured and had the hallmarks in aroma and palate of a well-made wine from fully ripe Cabernet Franc.

We left Closerie de la Picardie with enhanced knowledge of what is involved in producing high quality grapes in Anjou. We would like to express our sincere thanks to Benoît Rocher for a memorable visit.

© Phil Cooke 2008

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Château la Varière by Quentin Sadler

This estate is truly beautiful and ticks all my boxes for how a proper Château should look.

Ancient Virginia creeper covered stone walls, half timbered outbuildings and a moat all go to make the place evocative and to give the visitor a sense of peace and tranquility that is strangely only enhanced by the scrunch of gravel in the drive.

So far so good; we were met by Marie Beujeau, the owner’s daughter, who was our host for this visit.

At first this seemed like a visit that would really work, and indeed it did, but not in the way I expected. It is a famous name with a long illustrious history and is stocked in Waitrose for heaven’s sake. How could it not be good?

Facts & Figures

The estate is 95 hectares from which they produce a wide array of appellations:

Anjou

Anjou-Villages-Brissac

Rosé de la Loire

Cabernet d’Anjou

Anjou Blanc

Coteaux de l’Aubance

Coteaux de Layon

Quart de Chaume

They also own a small parcel of Bonnezeaux and they are just about to buy René Renou’s parcel of Bonnezeaux Les Melleresses to add to their own.

To this they add an impressive line up of grapes:

Chenin Blanc

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Sauvignon

Pinot Noir

Chenin Noir/Pinot d’Aunis

Grolleau

Terroir

Marie explained the terroir on the estate. They are sited where three different bedrocks meet, those from Brittany, the Paris Basin and deep gravel over schist - which suits their Cabernet Sauvignon. This explains their ability to make quite different wines on a single site. They have schist, clay and slate as well as tuffeau, which it turns out is a limestone and not volcanic tufa as I have always understood.

I did not really understand all this, so checked in James E. Wilson’s Terroir. He says the area is where the “Old rocks” of the Massif Armoricain, consisting of various schists and some limestone, meet the cretaceous Paris basin, mainly tuffeau here. A little to the south is the great Jurassic limestone of Côte d’Or fame. He does not mention gravel, so I assume that is a localised soil.

The barrel cellar for the top cuvées of their sweet whites was a lovely converted barn with a high tech glass door sealing the room that was kept at a constant 10˚C in order to stop the residual sugar from re-fermenting.

They have a similar store for their reds, but only the Cabernet Sauvignon sees time in wood and is kept at a constant 15-17˚C.

Tasting

After a great deal of hanging around while our host disappeared we finally got to the tasting.

This was a comparison between the 2007, 2006 and 2005 Château la Varière Anjou-Villages-Brissac Cabernet Franc.

The 2007 was quite astringent with high acidity, green tannins and a harsh finish that lacked fruit.

The 2006 was much plusher and attractive with lovely fruit on the middle palate that was only spoiled by a green finish.

The 2005 was a monster at either 14% or 14.5% depending on which bottle you believed. The perfume was good, but huge, astringent and chalky tannins masked the fruit on the palate making the wine unbalanced.

In front of us we had their two price lists. At this stage I noticed that they do not make any of their ‘Prestige Cuvées’ from Cabernet Franc and I wondered why?

I also wondered why they did not use any oak on their Cabernet Franc, when the wines in front of me made me think they could be the better for it?

So, I asked the questions and two more wines were brought in:

Château la Varière Anjou-Villages-Brissac La Chevaliere 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

The opaque colour was great, the nose was a hedonistic blend of cassis liqueur and tea, but ultimately the 18 months in new oak was just too much for it and the wine lacked balance.

To answer my question about what oak does to Cabernet Franc, Marie gave us a wine from their other domaine:

Domaine de la Perruche Clos de Chaumont 2006 Saumur-Champigny

had a beautifully perfumed nose with bright red fruit and delicate spice.

In the mouth it was round with fine grain tannins and smoky spice. It was supple, elegantly fat and beautifully balanced between fruit, oak and tannins.

For me this was the red wine of the whole trip and a great finale to this visit.

It showed that Cabernet Franc and oak can go together very well indeed and although it was not proof that the Anjou-Villages-Brissac wines would have been the better for some time in barrel to soften and smooth the tannins, it was a pointer.

All in all I enjoyed the visit, the beautiful location, the feeling of peace and felt that I had learned and experienced something very useful.

© Quentin Sadler 2008

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AOC Saumur-Champigny by Angela Reddin

Our transport once again loaded us into one good, other bad and ugly, vans.   I was too much looking forward to this particular visit to mind that much.  But when we arrived at the beautiful 17th Century-built Domaine de Nerleux, I put my carry-all bag onto a pristine garden bench in order to take photos.  A ‘wet paint sign’ would have been appropriate!  I managed to get paint all over my bag, hands and trousers but was immediately rescued by Yves Lambert , who covered me in white spirits to remove the paint.  Apologies to all who were later sitting near me trying to taste.

Our hosts for the generic tasting were Regis Neau of Domaine de Neurleux, Yves Lambert of Domaine St Just and Edouard Pisani-Ferry of Château de Targé (pictured right).  

Soils

The appellation has just over 3,000 acres of vines planted on a limestone plateau in a golden triangle starting with Saumur in the north near the Loire River, with Montreuil-Ballay and Fontevraud l’Abbaye taking the east and west points.  The area has hard chalky subsoils, interspersed with some clay and predominantly sandy pockets with also some grey and red flint.  The aspect is south SE/SW generally.  The Loire is the last World Heritage-designated “wild” river in France, meaning the water levels can vary by several metres within a few days and the islands slowly move from year to year. 

Tuffeau

The region is riddled with caves and underground tunnels, carved into the tuffeau rock. Tuffeau blanc is  calcareous and gives fantastic drainage.  Tuffeau jaune tends to be the topsoil, this degraded rock containing more sand.  

An interesting point came up with regard to the origin of the stone as some of us remember being informed that tuffeau was a metamorphic rock, superheated by volcanic action which trapped micro gas bubbles in the stone.  The vignerons were adamant that this rock had been formed by the Paris Basin, the vast inland sea of millennia ago and was the result of sediment.

Tunnels

Miles and miles  of tunnelled caves exist in the area, originally quarried centuries ago for building stone, then used for mushroom growing and wine storage and now being used for tourist attractions as well as cellaring space.  The stone is porous and friable, but hardens when cut and is a beautiful creamy buttermilk-yellow; when viewed as the stonework of the fabulous châteaus of the region in dawn and dusk it appears to glow.

Saumur-Champigny for us Cabernet Franc lovers is one of the top spots in the Loire.  The Sam Harrop mantra of “fruit definition” is also raised here, but to me the producers had a greater collective sense of wanting much more than just international recognition; they have been incorporating modern changes in the wineries, especially at Château de Targé - stainless steel, thermo regulators, sorting tables. They are also seeking the best sites to further improve the wines.  The visits to the vineyards illustrated the moving away from chemical interference to more benign practices such as cover crops.   There did not seem to be as much evidence of the dreaded Eutypiose (die back or dead arm) disease although it is endemic now in Europe and of serious concern.

Copper 

At the tasting, the enthusiastic Edouard was in command. Château de Targé adopted the Terra Vitis Charter in 2000, exports 20% of production and the wines can be found in Majestic in the UK.  When asked with regard to moving further from the organic into biodynamic, he is honest in that he wants to keep his arsenal intact.  With 50 separate attacks of mildew in 2006 and 30 in 2007, looking for an alternative to copper sulphate sprays, which wash off in the rain, is the goal they are actively pursuing but universally there is no alternative yet.   In general the wines are inoculated after cool maceration for 4+ days.  In keeping with medium tannin extraction, the fermentation temperatures are controlled to enhance fruit, not tannin.   

Micro-bullage 

Micro-bullage – sending bubbles of oxygen through the tank to gently move the cap and not “wash’ the skins – this was another technique a number of us needed clarification on.  Oxygen pumped through wine is used for many reasons, and all of the techniques seem to achieve a different objective.  Micro-bullage was apparently invented in the Loire 20 years ago and is an alternative to pumping over or punching down. 

In the vineyard Yves Lambert showed us how the harvesting machine worked and explained the techniques the driver needs to employ to achieve picking just the ripest fruit.

Regis Neau explained his labelling terms over a very excellent buffet lunch, Domaine de Neuleux vines are on a South West exposure, mainly on calcaire.  They machine harvest at around 45 hl/hc – he also uses a very special harvesting machine which, when operated by a good driver, only brings in the ripest grapes.  The name “Nerleux” in old French is Ner (black) and leux (wolf).

There were a number of wine styles, although all tending to lean towards the unoaked, with smooth tannins and forward fruit styles. Given that 2007 was a pretty average year in vintage terms, the wines really exhibited a pleasant freshness and much “drinkability”.  

This visit was a real highlight.  The vignerons had a clear sense of purpose and focus and the wines were seriously good.

Tasting Notes

1. Cave wine Cave Saumur Champigny Selection 2007 12.5 %  Med colour depth.  Good start, med weight, nice tannins, fresh acid.  Balanced, attractive.

2. Dom Saint Vincent Sau Champ 2007.  Dull in the mouth.  SO2 burnt aromas.

3. Yves Lambert 2007 basic Cuvée  13.5%  Attractive colour. Raspberry fruit, floral touch, sappy clean and fresh.  Bright forward happy juice medium weight, fine fresh clean medium+ length

4. Cave selection 2006 Quiet nose,  cherry skin and pip.  Little more depth and finish than 2007.  Very attractive.  The year has helped. 

5. Cave selection 2006 Reserve.  Different soils from  No 1.  Only chalk very small topsoil or argilis.  Is harvested later, spends more time fermenting.  Deep core.  Slight animal fur note, iris, redcurrant and cherry.   Minerality in mouth, bit more backbone and tannin, lead pencil ironstone finish.  Weightier.  Med – long finish.

6. 2006 Dom de la Cune sandier soils.  Summer fruit pudding, deep colour.  Middle of Saumur Champigny, “older” vine complexity shows on nose. Silky aromas.  Lovely in the mouth, top quality, absolute spot on.  delicate strength, fabulous length,

7. Dom de Nerleux Vielle Vigne 45hl/hc machine harvest 4 weeks total ferment. South West aspect, gentle slope exposure on Calcaire 13.5% Clos de Chatren 60-70 yr old vines.   Malt nose framboise, spice and earth.   Serious structure here, lovely ripe tannins, med to full bodied.  Excellent finish.  

8. Ch de Targe 2006 Inviting nose, clean forward red bramble fruits, sous bois and a hint of leather.  Smokey volcanic minerality.  Fleshy.  Dark chocolate.  Forward attack, generous mid palate structure and fine length.

© Angela Reddin 2008

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Bourgueil gained Appellation Controlée status in 1937 and now have 121 growers looking after 1,400 ha of vines.  Most growers have an average of 12 ha per person, most being small growers.  To put this into figures, small growers account for 1,000 ha with the local co-op having 400 ha. The red grapes are largely Cabernet Franc, but a lot of the vineyards have around 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon; this can be difficult to ripen and ripens two weeks later than Cabernet Franc.  There is also a little dry fruity rosé coming from this region but this is a growing market.

We were met by some of the winegrowers of Bourgueil at a superb tasting room with a good illustration of how structured the vineyards and soil types there were in this area. Their top wines were from the hillside area of Bourgueil with various types of soil mixed together with limestone, clay flint and sand. These wines can age up to 10 years.  Their everyday lighter wines came from the gravelly sand closer to the river. What surprised me was that they only export 3% of their production as they find it a lot easier selling to Paris and other regions of France.

Tasting notes:

Three of the wines that impressed me most:

Domaine des Ouches 2006

Gambier Thomas et Denis 20

ABV 13%

The bright Orange 20 label would stand out for people who buy wines by the label.

This wine came from a single block on Gravel soil.  They had good dry weather that was quite hot until August but they had a little rain in September so they harvested very fast in 2006 before any rain came again this gave them good ripe grapes.  The grapes are then de stemmed and then has 10 days skin contact for a little extraction with 7 days of that giving its alcoholic fermentation.  The wine was then put in a tank for 5 months fined and bottled in March.

On tasting - this was a dry wine with light tannins and ripe fruit tasting of dry raspberry and cherry spice aroma but had a good structure and an excellent red berry finish to this wine.

Domaine De La Closelie 2007

Jean Francis Mabileau 12%

This wine came from vines of 50-60 year old vines planted on gravel and limestone.  This winemaker doesn’t harvest early he waits until all of his vines are ripe.  In the winery they remontage for15 to 18 days with a maceration and vinification occurring as they do not want too much extraction from the grapes, their current vintage is in the tank at the moment.  Jean does fining and filtration only when necessary but ages his wines in barrels (not oak barrels) for 6 to 12 months to round the wine off.

On tasting - dry structured tannins with cherry and dry raspberry aromas quite a good structure with a long rounded finish drink at 2 years +

Domaine de la Chevalerie 2007

Pierre Caslot 13% ABV

They were founded in 1640 and they now have 33hl of vines.  Their viticulture has been certified organic since 2003 and will be certified on their label for 2008 they are also experimenting with biodynamics.  They have 4 different plots for their wine all around 500 metres wide all giving off low yields.  Each plot gives off different structure to the wines but they do not want to give too much tannins to the wine.  The hillside vineyard gives a bigger structure to the wine from its clay and limestone soil.  These 4 plots are all harvested separate to give more structure to their wine.

On tasting - a medium-full bodied with rich, perfumed raspberry/forest fruit character.

If you are interested in renting a row of vines from this vineyard

3 d wines have row to rent from

Domaine de la Chevalerie
Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes (red)

Text © Paul Quinn 2008

Photo of the soils of Bourgeuil © Angela Reddin 2008

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AOC St. Nicolas de Bourgueil by Carol Whitehead

Saturday morning brought our final hours in the Loire vineyards. The blue sky with breezes pushing the clouds along, and clement temperatures, promised a fine day.

The vineyards of Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil cover an area of 1,000 hectares, and are sited on the north/right banks of the Loire, between Saumur and Tours. These are Touraine wines.

This appellation lies next to Bourgueil, but is smaller in size and in production, with St. Nic producing approximately 59,000 hl to Bourgueil’s 70,000 hl.

The area is made up of a wide terrace of old silt deposits with deep sand and gravel soils, and climbs a rolling hillside of limestone and sand topped by forest, which protects the vines from the north wind. It is a generally well-exposed, south-facing area.

Breton

Cabernet Franc is the main grape variety. Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed to be up to 10% of a blend, but in practice, is rarely used. As in Bourgueil, the local name for the Cabernet Franc is “Breton”. One winemaker told me that the grape took its name from the sailors of Brittany (la Bretagne), who transported the vines, originally from Bordeaux, up the Loire River on their boats. Also it was the Abbé Breton who took over the abbey in St. Nic and brought in vines from Bordeaux, so giving another reason for the special name.

Un jeune qui a de l’esprit

We had a charming greeting at the attractive Domaine de la Cotelleraie from all the winemakers, and our hosts Carine (Mabileau) Rezé of Vignoble de la Jarnoterie, and Stéphane Renou, President of the appellation. Carine invited each AWE member to come before the group and be “invested” with a striking white polo shirt, with the appellation name writ large in red.

Also on the shirts, the phrase, “Un jeune qui a de l’esprit”. Esprit has many meanings: wit, soul, spirit, talent, fun. One possible translation: “We may be young, but we’ve got what it takes!”

On your bike!

Carine Rezé is the embodiment of this ideal – she hustled us off to change into our new shirts, then led us around a corner to see … bicycles! Rows of shiny, clean, colourful bikes, and the rolling vineyards ours to explore. On we hopped, and soon were bowling along the grassy paths and then taking on the gentle incline towards the hillside vineyards. Absolute fun.

Stopping occasionally for stragglers, strugglers, and an appreciative look at vine and soil, we eventually abandoned our pretty “velos” and walked up quite a steep sloping vineyard to awaiting tables, groaning under the weight of bottles and picnic nibbles. The winemakers arrived and settled in next to their wines, each ready to discuss and educate. We tasted, with the green carpet of vines rolling at our feet, down, down, and onwards to the Loire.

Eight wineries, showing 10 different wines – all Cabernet Franc 2007/8 Ambassadors. General impression of fruity, firm, muscular wines, with spice and violets on the nose, and supple ripe tannins. Wines from the “terrasses”, like Domaine Olivier, showed more black fruits; and “coteaux” or hillside vineyards, like Domaine de la Cotelleraie, had higher minerality and firm structure.

Overall, very good wines, and all excellent Ambassadors for the quality and potential of the Cabernet Franc grape. Young winemakers, and young wines, but they’ve got soul.

Wineries and wines:

Domaine de la Cotelleraie, Cuvée “Domaine” 2006, and Cuvée “Le Vau Jaumier” 2006.

Vignoble de la Jarnoterie, Cuvée “MR” 2006.

Domaine Taluau & Foltzenlogel, Cuvée “Le Vau Jaumier” 2007.

Domaine du Mortier (organic) Cuvée “Dionysis” 2006 and Cuvée “Graviers” 2006.

Domaine F. Mabileau, Cuvée “Les Coutures” 2006.

Vignoble de la Gardière, Cuvée “Tradition” 2006.

Domaine Olivier, Cuvée “Domaine” 2006.

Domaine L. & G. Mabileau, Cuvée “de Printemps” 2006.

Text © Carol DB Whitehead, AIWS 2008

Photos © Angela Reddin 2008

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Voice Coach Seminar,  21st July, 2008, Birmingham, by Laura Clay

Train without strain (or how not to whine over wine)

A year after suggesting a Voice Coaching session for AWE it eventually took place in July in Birmingham, one of the few events to occur outside of London in the AWE’s 12 year history! Susan and I are justifiably proud of this massive achievement! It was thanks to Susan that there was an exciting Lanson tasting scheduled for the afternoon.

But first the ‘voice workshop’ which was led by Phyllida Furse of Sound Move and Voice Care Network UK. Phyllida took us through two and half hours of some very practical, hands-on exercises that would aim to help us both protect and build the strength of our voices, as well as to help us better communicate our intended message. We discussed our roles as wine educators and actually what we have to do, such as:

• Entertain

• Educate

• Manage audiences – especially challenging as the evening of a good wine tasting progresses

• Manage ourselves – We have to ‘perform’ as professional communicators whether we feel like it or not. This can lead to strain, which is rapidly and physically reflected in tension around the head and neck area. That tension then flies to the larynx leading to some very high notes and unpredictable and unwanted sounds on occasions.

Damage

Phyllida (pictured right) made us aware of just how much our vocal folds (cords) have to do, opening and closing to make a sound, vibrating sometimes up to a million times a day, depending on just how vocal you are! There is plenty of scope therefore for friction and damage.

Warm Up

Speech is a muscular activity, we were informed, affected by our mental state, and the muscles involved need to be warmed up and prepared for work, just as any other muscles do that are in for prolonged use.

So before we knew it Phyllida had us on our feet improving our posture, making room for breath and looking more confident, and growing at least a millimetre - not an insubstantial amount for the more vertically challenged amongst us!

We stretched our backs, eased our necks and opened up the chest and shoulders. We took deep breaths and off-loaded them slowly (hissing!) before warming our voices to various interesting versions of ‘mmmmm.....’ and ‘ah there you are’ and ‘lovely to see you today’.

Laughter

Laughter played a key role, alleviating our embarrassment and releasing our voices. Phyllida affirmed our suspicions that laughter more than breaks the ice; it relaxes both the audience and the speaker, helping to release the potential tension and strain on the vocal cords. Quentin shared a couple of his opening gambits but those present are sworn to secrecy and if we were ever to use them, no doubt we’d have to pay him royalties!!

Tone

Phyllida went on to discuss tone of voice – absolutely critical when it comes to describing things or issuing instructions, and how striking a balance somewhere between nasality and chest voice will make us much more comfortable to listen to. Our feelings will always affect phonation, so it is important to look and feel prepared if you want your voice to sound in control, as well as being interesting to listen to. The voice is an instrument which is going to influence the emotional climate of the whole room.

Insults

One of the highlights of the morning, to improve our diction and volume, was being asked to exchange a few Shakespearian insults across the room.  Personally I found ‘fawny tartar’ much more satisfying than ‘you acorn’ and I look forward to using it, if not to some annoying heckler then at least to my children! This exercise taught us that we can be more effective without shouting, leaning forward or jutting our chins (always tempting when being emphatic) by being clear and precise.

Looking after the voice

We were given some useful tips on voice care, for example reducing our talking time in presentations, resting the voice after long sessions, gargling with boiled, cooled salty water to fight infection and promote healing, as well as drinking a great deal - of water rather than wine! Phyllida finally gave us some early warning signs of possible problems to look out for, which should tell us to be more careful with what is after all the most important tool of the our trade, our voices.

Text & photo © Laura Clay 2008

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Champagne Lanson Tasting & Seminar by Linda Simpson

Hosted 21st July 2008 by Jean-Paul Gandon, Lanson Cellarmaster

This tasting was described as a follow-on presentation after what was a fascinating and educational voice coach seminar in Birmingham.  It was in fact an event in its own right with some truly interesting insights into the unique methods and styles from this champagne house.

Jean-Paul Gandon (pictured below) has been winemaker at Lanson for  43 years and needed no ‘coaching’ in presenting what was a very generous flight of wines. 

IMW Trip to Hungary by Susan Hulme MW

IMW Hungary trip October 9th to 13th - visit to Gere winery in Villány.

Villány is in the south of Hungary near the Croatian border. When we arrived late at night I could see the lights across the border in Croatia from my hotel room. Our hotel was a small boutique-style establishment with a spa (which unfortunately we didn’t get to see). It is owned by the Gere family with whom our first and only visit in Villány was scheduled for the following morning. Their hotel is part of a wider attempt in some regions to encourage more wine tourism and although only recently opened and still being finished outside, seemed to be busy already.

The region of Villány-Siklós is one of Hungary’s best red-wine producing areas. Its most important vineyards are located in the villages of Villány, Villánykövesd, Kisharsány, Nagyharsrsány and Siklós. The Villány-Siklós wine region lies upon the south-eastern slopes of the Villány mountains. These mountains protect the vineyards from the cold northern climate resulting in a special sub-mediterranean local mesoclimate very suited to producing some fine red wines.

Attila Gere

On our first full day of the trip we visited the Gere winery, owned by one of the leading wine producers in Villány and based just outside the village of the same name. We were met and warmly welcomed by winemaker and owner Attila Gere and his daughter Andrea, who acted as translator.

Attila explained that the vines here at Gere are at an altitude of 150 to 250 metres on south, south-west facing slopes. Their plantings are almost all red varieties but they also have a tiny quantity of Olaszrizling (1ha). The soil here is loess which is rich in chalk pebbles and has good water retention properties, a factor which is very important in hot years.

These conditions seem to bring out the best in cabernet franc in particular; it is a long-standing variety here and became established after phylloxera. However, Attila feels it was only between 1997 and 1999 that winemakers here began to understand what quality wine means and the real importance of low yields. 

Thankfully this was one of the visits where the room was laid out for a seated tasting (always easier for detailed note taking) and it was very professionally organised with individual spittoons and two glasses each for a vintage comparison (itself very welcome). We compared Cabernet Francs from 2000, 2002, 2003 and 2006 with the same vintages of Gere’s flagship wine, Kopar, which is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend.

The vintages:

2000 - A very hot vintage with high temperatures and little rain. In 2000 the average annual temperature was 13.3OC in Villány where this figure typically fluctuates between 10.5 and 11.2OC.  Many 2000 wines have matured quite fast and the lesser wines, although very high in alcohol, are not expected to keep very well.

2002 - A good average year, hot but not extremely so.

Tasting

We started with four vintages of Gere Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc 2000

This wine had a very dark ruby core with a slightly garnet rim. It was quite evolved on the nose with a slightly heady, VA note followed by smoke, dark plums and spice.

The initial attack was very smooth, round and appealing, with a soft velvety texture and vivid acidity towards the end. It was not a huge wine but not weak either; in fact it was very well balanced with an unforced and gentle style.

Cabernet Franc 2002 (14%)

In appearance this was dark ruby with an opaque core and quite evolved rim. It was more closed on the nose initially, with smoke, spice and undertones of tomato plant & leafy notes.

On the palate it had a silky and smooth initial attack, quite rich in flavour with gravelly-textured tannins that were a little firm and drying on the finish.

Cabernet Franc 2003

This wine had an opaque, almost black core. On the nose it had smoky, dusty tomato leaf and plum notes together with some spice and alcohol. On the palate again it had a very smooth, round, silky texture with plum and smoke flavours but it was a mid-weight wine with more grippy, greener tannins and a slightly drying finish. Overall, it had a quite lush texture and good flavour intensity.

Cabernet Franc 2006 (14.5%) Attila told us that for this and more recent vintages they have reduced the amount of oak to allow the fruit to shine through more. This wine was matured 60% in 225 litre new oak barrels and 40% in 5000 litre oak barrels. The total production was 10,000 bottles.

In appearance, it had a very deep, opaque core with a narrow purple rim. The nose was super-clean, with biscuit notes and stylish oak dominating initially. At first the fruit was closed but on standing there emerged some very vivid blackcurrant and violet qualities underneath. The palate opened with a very smooth, silky, initial attack followed by a good weight of creamy oak, ripe plums, blackcurrant and spice underpinned by a vibrant, mouth-watering acidity. Overall this was a very stylish, pristine wine with a seductive silky texture, lovely weight and balance and refined tannins. It is still very young and needs at least another 5 years but it was the best of the range for me and I thought the change in oak regime was definitely a big step forward.

We then moved on to tasting four vintages of Gere’s flagship wine called Kopar, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend. Kopai is a hill on their most southern slopes and this wine is a selection of their best parcels from this site only.

Kopar Villány Cuvée 2000 (14%)

40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot.

This wine had an opaque black core with a very narrow garnet rim.

The nose was initially lifted but high-toned notes were followed by blackcurrant, leaf, earthy plum and spice.

It had a very, very, silky, melting texture with a smooth and harmonious mid-palate, revealing a beautifully balanced and textured wine with fine gravelly tannins. The texture has enormous appeal and is balanced by juicy acidity. On the palate it is a little held back with brooding dark fruits, coal and smoke notes dominating. There was plenty of life and vitality on the palate but the texture is seductive now.

Kopar Cuvée 2002 (14%)

With a dark ruby core and a wider garnet rim, this looked more evolved than the 2000.

On the nose, tea leaf, spice and heady qualities dominated initially, and it was almost Barolo–like. This was followed by notes of plums, cedar, cream, spice and cinnamon which were not yet married together. On the palate the wine was much more taut, youthful and nervy with tangy mouth-watering acidity; it still had a very silky texture with firmer more upright but fine-textured tannins. The fruit is rather held back at present by the firm structure but the velvety texture is already appealing.

Kopar 2003 (14.5%)

This had a very deep, opaque core with a narrow rim which was already garnet in tone.

On the nose, there were smoky, dusty plum notes with some earthiness and a slight balsamic VA note which evolved on standing to something closer to a savoury, dried herb note.

A smooth, silky, voluptuous texture was balanced by a very lively, vibrant acidity. It is a not overly rich but beautifully poised wine with fine gravelly textured tannins. The fruit is harder to pin down but there is a savoury herbal note with plums and leafy tones.

Kopar 2006 (14.5%)  52% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Attila told us that this wine represents a move in a new direction as there was a much higher proportion of Cabernet Franc in the blend and the percentage aged in small (225l) oak barrels has been reduced in favour of large (5000l) oak barrels to allow more of the fruit quality to shine through.  

This wine had an opaque core with a narrow, youthful, purple rim. On nosing, it was super-clean with a pure fragrance of violet and dried roses although stylish new-oak notes dominate at present. There are ripe, bright plum and cherry notes underneath and a delicate, haunting fragrance that is found only on the best cabernet franc.

On the palate again this was a beautifully crafted wine, with a melting, silky texture and a rich juicy mid-palate contrasting a velvety texture with a vivid mouth-watering acidity which adds vivacity and brightness. The flavours were also of pristine fruit and showed great precision. The tannins were more upright on the finish as befits a young wine like this but were still very fine textured. The finish was long, firm but very fine – excellent.  This wine stood out for me as the star of the group.

Photos & text © Susan Hulme MW 2008

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Ascoli Piceno,  Le Marche by Rosie Bainbridge

On July 8th 2008,  I attended the Piceno wine and food tasting event at the Italian Cultural Institute, Belgrave Square, London, organized by Piceno Promozione, a department of the chamber of commerce and the Ascoli Piceno provincial council. The aim was to promote the region and its produce through a cultural evening of music, songs and readings, followed by a wine tasting and lavish buffet of regional dishes, notably: oliva Ascolani del Piceno (olives stuffed with meat sauce, coated and deep-fried), cured ham, a fresh pasta dish, country breads and cheeses. It was a fascinating evening – but all too short to take everything in. Thus, with a few contacts made, I planned to visit this little known part of Italy (to me) and learn more.

With help and expertise from the various departments within the council, a four day visit in October was fixed. Joining me was a group of seven students from wine classes, looking to broaden their wine horizons, and catch the last of the autumnal sunshine. The schedule included a guided tour of the historic town, a visit to San Benedetto del Tronto on the coast, and six vineyard visits representing the different characteristics of Piceno wine.

Saturday October 18th

It was getting dark as we arrived in Ascoli, but the historic part of town, the churches, towers and piazzas were beautifully illuminated. Our hotel, 17th century outside, with 21st century interior, was exceptional, and here I met for the second time Marta Cavalierri (interpreter at the London event) and Giovanni Della Casa (from the Ascoli provincial council) who’d coordinated our tour. We all had dinner together in a trattoria, tucked away at the back of a grocery store. Crammed with locals this place had a ‘reputation’ and we tucked into local dishes; pasta, meat cooked over a wood fire, salads, cheese and many different local wines. Finally, after liqueurs, it was time to hit the sack, exhausted.

Sunday October 19th

Sunday morning in Ascoli Piceno - time to explore the delightful piazzas (Piazza Simonetti pictured right) with shops, cafés and bars; narrow medieval streets, churches, galleries, ancient buildings, and monuments with our own guide from the council office.

At the coast just a few km away the sun still shone, it was warm and the sea looked inviting (but just for a paddle), and so a few hours were spent strolling along the tranquil, empty, sandy beach. Most hotels, restaurants and private villas were closed and shuttered for winter.

We found just one bar beside the beach open for an aperitif - a chilled bottle of local white wine – good it was too, with delicious floral aromas, and fruity tang.

After a day sight-seeing and later an evening visit to the hilltop town of Fermo for roast chestnuts in the square and dinner all together again at Marta and Giovanni’s local ‘agriturismo’ we headed back to Piceno – tomorrow was an early start.                                                                                                                                              

Monday October 20th

The first visit on Monday morning was to Azienda Filippo Panichi, established in 1896, in Castel di Lama. Filippo gave us one of the most informative visits ever – his English was superb. He now runs the family estate concentrating on quality, not quantity. We tasted several wines including Falerio dei Colli Ascolini and Rosso Piceno superiore; a blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Cabernet – a deep, rich, mouth-filling wine with cherry and damson fruit.

We arrived at Agriturismo Fiorano Cossignano for a wine tour led by Paulo (a former dentist from Milan) followed by lunch. The location is stunning. Several wines accompanied the traditional, home made dishes. ‘Donna Orgilla’ Pecorino. ‘Fiorano’ Sangiovese IGT Marche 2007. ‘Terre di Giobbe’ DOC Rosso Piceno superiore 2005. It was a most convivial visit, with superb wine.

We had one more appointment at Axienda Agricola Aurora with Federico and were joined by Emanuelle our interpreter for a few visits. Aurora was one of the first organic vineyards in Piceno. Their premium wines have the highest Tre Bicchieri (3 glass) award. In the tasting room, the Falerio 2007 and Rosso Piceno Superiore 2006 were stunning examples of Piceno wines – deep, intense with a long finish.

Tuesday 21st October am.

Domodimonti, in Montefiore. We met with the owner’s son Carlo Bellini– who lives in London, and the manager Mr.Vagnoni. A new premises for visitors is in construction – mega scale, like Mondavi. A state of the art winery is already up and running. We had a magnificent tour and tasting of wines – including this year’s straight from the vats – like juicy blackberries. Selection is stringent for ‘Solo per Te’ their flagship wine.

Lunch was with all the guys from the winery, at an off the beaten track farm ‘cantina’ – the meal was unbelievable; endless courses, traditional home-cooking – but still two more vineyards to visit.

16.00

Azienda Agricola Le Caniette

A most impressive winery with wines to match – after a tour of the cellar, and the sight of grapes drying in racks (pictured right) , we tasted their entire range including a rare Vin Santo.   

18.00

Clara Marcelli, Castorano

We were running late – slightly flagging, but once at Clara Marcelli’s winery our charming young hosts (sons of Clara) along with Emanuelle (translator) were there to welcome us and we soon revived. These wines shone out, reaching real highs on the score board. The pecorino was golden coloured, full bodied, fragrant. The Piceno superiore (70% Montepulciano, 30% Sangiovese) was deep and fruity, but the exceptional  ‘K’un’ (100% Montepulciano) with 30 months in oak and tasting of black fruit, spice and chocolate was the best ever – a superb ending to a wonderful tour.

With many thanks to all in Piceno who made it possible. A few Piceno wines are available in the UK – (Majestic wines) and more should be arriving in the future. It’s well worth a visit though!

We’ll be back.                                                                                                        

Photos & text © Rosie Bainbridge 2008

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Viejos Amigos - 25th Anniversary by Carolyn Bosworth-Davies

Invited to go to Penedès last year as one of the students of the week-long course organised by the Cava & Penedès Wine Institute, I not only learned a great deal, but it was also a whole lot of fun. So it really wasn’t a difficult decision to make when, together with my husband, I was invited as a Viejos Amigos (Old Friends), to attend the 25th Anniversary celebration of the first running of the course. The reunion of past students and their partners took place in Sitges, on the last weekend of September.

Organised and coordinated by UVIPE (Unió Vinícola del Penedès), the visits and tastings with long-term sponsors of the course, Torres and Freixenet, filled the whole weekend.

Gala dinner

Having all arrived at Sitges on Friday evening, the event kicked off by our being taken to the ‘Masia La Torre del Gall’ in Sant Cugat, Sesgarrigues for the gala dinner (pictured below). And what a night! My husband’s quiet observation, ‘this will sort out the professionals from the amateurs’, was very apt, with the evening, hosted by the Consejo Regulador, setting the tone for what would turn out to be a hugely gastronomically-challenging weekend.

With a few sore heads and a serious lack of sleep, 8.30am the next morning saw us heading off to the Torres Visitor Centre in Pacs del Penedès . Here the group of 80 were shown around some of the latest developments from the Torres ever-expanding empire.

Having been there only just a year ago, the Napa–esque approach to the Visitor Centre, with its latest feature of a ‘sensaround’ tunnel of smells from the vineyard year did not faze me. Other members, who had attended the course in its early days, were nonetheless awed by the changes.

Bodega Waltraud

Even in a year, I too could see the new developments that have taken place and our tour was focussed on Bodega Waltraud, opened this February. The bodega has been built on an ecological design following bio-climatic architectural principals. Unlike many of the architecturally spectacular wineries that have been developed in Spain in recent years, Bodega Waltraud is incredibly discreet and merges into its environment. You are hardly aware of its presence on the winery complex until you are right by it. There is a great sense of mystery and seclusion, and hence it is often referred to as the ‘secret winery’.

Aesthetic design 

The purpose of the new winery is to specialise in the production and subsequent ageing of the Torres singe vineyard wines from Penedès and Conca de Barberà. It has been aesthetically designed to counteract the coldness and functionality of winemaking equipment, and it is integrated into the countryside, surrounded with gardens full of typical Mediterranean plants. The building itself is over three different levels, diving eleven meters under ground, again to minimise the visual impact of the bodega.

Train tour

We went on a train tour of the lower level where some 3,000 barrels are stored and then to the second level where there are cloisters around which the single vineyard wines are aged. The tour here also takes on a rather Disney-style perspective, with hologram pictures of the estates in Penedès suddenly emerging as if from nowhere, as you pass by the barrels and cloisters. Dramatically presented, it leads to a crescendo when a curtain finally falls on the most prized cellar.

The rest of the building houses a tasting room and museum.  Outside there is a wonderful courtyard where we enjoyed a tasting of some of Torres’ newest brands.

Energy-saving

Miguel Torres (pictured right) joined us here and mingled with the students. His commitment to the Cava & Penedès course has been fantastic and he always seems to inspire people whenever he speaks. He explained the rationale behind the Bodega Waltraud, which had taken four years to build at a cost of 40 million euros. This was a cellar for the 21st century with everything designed to save energy.

CO2 reduction

One of the newest developments was the work on recovering carbon dioxide produced during the wine fermentation process. Miguel explained that even now trials were taking place on trying to retain the gas from fermentation and preventing its escape by reducing it to carbonates. This is done by using phytoplankton to reproduce natural processes that lead to the absorption of carbon dioxide. Ultimately the aim is to prevent CO2 from entering the atmosphere.

Along with other energy-reducing policies, Miguel hoped this would make Torres completely carbon-neutral in the future. It was something he hoped to see, but would be for others to implement, as he said he intended to retire in two years.

Given his energy and enthusiasm it is hard to envisage the Pacs de Penedès Centre without him; he made it a fascinating visit.

Freixenet 

From Torres we went to Freixenet where Gloria Collell, Export Director (pictured left), along with Graham Fortune from Freixenet UK led us through a tutored tasting of eight different Cavas from the Freixenet portfolio.

The aim of the tasting was to reacquaint us with the varying styles of Cava, and to show the extent of their portfolio. As ever with this popular wine, many had their preferences, but for me the Segura Non-Vintage excelled with its toasty, appley, citrus fruit and balanced acidity.

Before departing for lunch the whole party went down into the massive cellars for a train tour of miles upon miles of pallets of Cava!

Tasting

The day rounded off in the evening with a tasting from eight Cava and Penedès producers in our hotel ‘Calipolis’ in Sitges. This was a true challenge as it had been a long day, with an exceptionally fine late lunch in true Catalan style which left many of the party wanting an extended siesta!  The idea of working through over eighty wines with even more food being served was beyond some of the partners, not least of all my husband, who finally was forced to admit that wine-tasting does have its unique skills!!

But the Viejos Amigos were just getting into their stride, and attentively and diligently approached the tasting with enthusiasm and good spirit. And it was really worthwhile with some real gems, which really highlighted the value and improving quality of Penedès wines in particular.

The highlights for me were from a producer called One Plus One Equals Three (not exactly a catchy name) -  a new cellar started in 2000. Their white wine entitled Dahlia 2007, a blend of Viognier and Xarello, was a real winner. Softly aromatic on the nose, peachy fruit on the palate, but backed with a super refreshing acidity.

The wines of Albet i Noya, many of which ‘Vintage Roots’ distribute, also showed well. Experimenting with traditional and rare indigenous varieties in blends is their forte, the Finca La Milana 2005 being a case in point, with Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Caladoc. Lovely supple tannins, a rich and intense colour and concentration of fruit.

The producer that caught my eye the most was Pares Balta. ‘Top Selection’ import some of their range in to the UK. The range was all good, both wines and Cavas, elegantly balanced and with huge concentration. Also their labelling was very simple and attractively modern.

Sourcing fruit from mainly old vines, this is an old family-owned winery, producing wines in Penedès organically since 1790. Hard to pick out the best from their selection but the Absis 2003, a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon was exceptionally fine. Intense red fruit, fine grainy tannins, and an elegance that was seductive despite its huge flavours.

After which – well, a beer in the bar, time to catch up with Viejos Amigos and make new friends too, and time to reflect on what had been a great day and so typically generous of our hosts UVIPE and our friends in Penedès.  

Photos & text © Carolyn-Bosworth-Davies 2008

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Stanlake Park Wine Estate, AWE visit, 22nd October 2008 by Linda Simpson

Arriving at Stanlake Park Wine Estate was a delight - two dogs running round, a truck full of grape bins parked nearby and a group of robust looking pickers enjoying a welcome break in the autumn sun.

The car park leads to a very impressive cellar shop and tasting room, re-launched in 2008 and based on the footprint of an original Victorian greenhouse.  It is laden with Stanlake wines and others, cellar accoutrements, homemade jams and pickles and houses a 100 year old vine growing up through the floor.  It is the stuff of a marketing led upgrade; enter Peter Dart who made his fortune in marketing and still keeps his hand in working closely with Martin Sorrell at WPP.

Transformation

The former Thames Valley Vineyards, planted by John Layton in 1979, has been transformed into a wine lovers' must-see destination.  We were led to a converted barn housing a smart tasting room and en route got a glimpse of the private house (Peter’s very own château!) dating back to 1166 and all within the grounds of the estate.  During the 15th century the estate passed to the Thorpe Family; Elisabeth Thorpe married Nicholas Stanlake and the estate became known as Stanlake Park – hence the obvious change of name when Peter and Annette Dart took over in 2005.

Eclectic

The estate has over 30,000 vines in 25 acres.  As with most English vineyards, the parcels are an eclectic mix of varieties including Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus, Schönburger, Scheurebe, Ehrenfelser and Dornfelder to name but a few.  They have managed to reduce the number of varieties to 20!! 

Important varieties and new plantings include Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for the sparkling wines. They have a full sparkling production line from grape to label including a state-of-the-art bottling line which can switch between cork and screw-cap (more marketing genius).

Sparkling

Stanlake Park is one of the top 5 producers of sparkling wine in the country and currently bottling all of Denbies’ sparkling production for them. The NV Stanlake Park Brut Superior we tasted is proof that sparkling wine is very important in the range.  They are enjoying the benefits of a marginal climate, providing them with all the searing acidity they need.  Whilst the Champenoise are scrambling to pick in August before the grapes over ripen, here we are on a sunny autumn day in late October helping to pick the Pinot Noir!

Viticulture

The vines are high trained on wires (a mid-height sylvoz system) with grape bunches at about 5 feet – the easiest harvest I’ve ever done!  Canopy management/green harvesting takes place several times during ripening.  Soils are sandy loam, clay and sand. Graham Fisher, the vineyard manager is passionate and energetic and is constantly looking for ways to improve viticultural techniques and advances.  Reflective compost is his buzz phrase at the moment, a compound consisting of compost mixed in with crushed recycled glass to reflect more sunlight and heat on to the vines.

Despite all the innovation, enthusiasm and marketing focus, Stanlake Park Wine Estate is currently just breaking even.   You would think a successful marketing man would take one look and run a mile rather than invest a small fortune, grab it by the throat and wade in with both wellies!

www.stanlakepark.com

Tel: 0118 934 0176

Tasting notes:

Regatta 2006 - £6.99

Dry White Wine (1.9 gms sugar)

Blend of several varieties including Ortega and Schönburger. Nose of stoned fruit, crisp green apple, some floral and herbal notes, the palate is dry with a light citrus fruit, fresh, clean and crisp on the finish. 

Hinton Grove 2006 - £7.49

Off dry white wine

Schönburger and Ehrenfelser. On the nose there is a wonderful floral, honeysuckle and apricot character.  On the palate the wine is drier than expected with crisp acidity, green apple and lime.

Kings Fumé 2006 - £9.99

Oak aged dry white wine

Ortega, Regner and Scheurebe. Fermented and aged in new French Oak

Citrus, sherbert, soft vanilla nose, integrated and supple with a buttery finish.

Pinot Blush 2007 - £8.49

Dry Rose (1.2gms sugar)

Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris

On the nose raspberry and red berry with floral hints, a clean refreshingly dry rose on the palate

Heritage Brut 2005 - £13.99

Sparkling

On the nose lemon, citrus, yeasty with a creamy mouth feel, green apple and lemon zest.

Ruscome Dry Red 2006 - £9.99

Dry red wine

Triomphe and Dornfelder

Blackberry on the nose with an earthy, savoury character. On the palate, dry, red and black fruits with ripe tannins and medium bodied.

NV Stanlake Park Brut Superior - £17.99

A more developed wine, golden in colour with an increased viscosity and depth of flavour as denoted by the brioche , baked lemon character.

More info and dates for your diary:-

Open Afternoons on November 22nd and 29th, presenting a good opportunity to look around the vineyard and cellars, taste a few wines and enjoy their excellent new Cellar Shop. 

The tasting room in the converted barn is available for tastings and group events if you are looking for a venue.  In both cases, if you are interested, please contact Annette Dart at annette@stanlakepark.com.
 

Text © Linda Simpson 2008

Photos © Christos Ioannou 2008

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Roussillon Trip - October 2008

Presentation by Eric Aracil; La Coume del Mas & Mas Cristine; Domaine Vial-Magnères; Domaine Ferrer-Ribière; Château La Casenove;Domaine Lafage; Calce wine-growers; Domaine de Rancy; Arcadie/SCV Les Maîtres Vignerons de Tautavel      

Presentation by Eric Aracil at CIVR office - by Carolyn Bosworth-Davies

Heavens, it was cold and very windy on our first morning in Roussillon - a disappointment for those of us hoping to catch the last few rays of sunshine before the onset of winter. However, we were greeted at the CIVR offices in Perpignan with great warmth by Eric Aracil.

On arrival at our hotel, we had already been given a most comprehensive set of notes on the region, and Eric’s assistant, Virginie, also ran off the latest PowerPoint notes that Eric used later during the session, to take away with us.

Understanding Terroir

This is a complex region, and the key to the presentation was to prepare us for the visits we would be making, by explaining the different terroirs that make up the Roussillon region. Eric’s aim that first morning was to highlight how Roussillon is a ‘Border Region’ with several ‘micro-vineyards’, vineyards which have developed as a result of the mountains and rivers within the region, which create many differing terroirs, and which give different expressions of the Mediterranean climate. Eric stressed that understanding Roussillon’s terroir is the key to appreciating its wines and Vins Doux Naturels.

Fifteen varieties

Eric discussed with us in some detail the fifteen grape varieties that are permitted for the AOC Roussillon wines, emphasising that to qualify for AOC status, wines must contain at least a blend of three different varieties for complexity - something we discovered later that many producers found frustrating consequently opting to produce their wines as the local Vins de Pays.

Roussillon is not all red, nor is it all Grenache. Syrah is relatively new to the region – only present for 35 years or so - and depending on the terroir will express itself in different ways, from red fruits, to flowers, or to tar or liquorice. Many of the vines, especially the Carignan, are over a hundred years old and many vineyards are often mixed-field plantings, with varieties such as the traditional Roussillon variety, Llandoner Pelut (a cousin of the Black Grenache).  Now sadly dying out, Llandoner Pelut is fleshy and fruity but prized for its structure and colour.

Complexity

Whatever the grape, Eric explained that it is the complexity of the soils in Roussillon, with differing coloured schist, that makes it one of the best areas in the world to understand what grapes can be truly like, all because of the hugely complex terroir. This is most apparent with Macabeu. In Roussillon, Macabeu is regarded as a profoundly Catalan variety, and is considered to be its finest white variety for its aromatic quality and its herbal and floral character. Often dismissed in Spain as dull and ordinary (it’s known as Viura in Rioja), in Roussillon it produces wines of great complexity.

Eric explained that our itinerary had been arranged to understand the complexities of the terroir and how the varying soils influence the styles of wines including the VDN wines. Grey schist gives wines minerality, with salty and spicy flavours with green and white pepper notes. Wines tended to be light in colour and structure but had firm acidity. Black schist gives more colour and structure to the wines with stronger spice and burnt tyre flavours. Granite gives powerful, more alcoholic wines, that tended to be more rustic, and limestone gives chalky wines with complex aromas.

Climate

Climatically, the big issue is drought, with little rain for over four years. The Agly River to the north of the region is now virtually dry, and when it rains, it pours and the water runs off the land to the sea and fails to permeate into the soil to replenish the water table. Irrigation is permitted for Vins de Pays but not for AOC, although growers can apply for permission. Wind, as we all experienced later that day, is ever present in Roussillon. Not just one wind, but seven different kinds of wind, of which the tramontana, a north-west wind, is the most beneficial. Wind helps to keep disease and pests at bay and tempers the extremes of heat in the summer, and in the main, the vignerons regard it favourably.

For Vins Doux Naturel, the influence of terroir is less important, although in Banyuls the sea influence does gives salty flavours and a lightness to the wines, however the key point for VDN wines is the maturation period.

Tasting

To illustrate all of these points Eric had prepared a tasting of six red wines from vines on differing soils, and twelve different aged VDNs from the region.

The first wine was Collioure Rouge Cornet & Cie 2006 from the Cave de L’Abbé Rous, from vines on grey schist. My notes identified seaweed and iodine aromas, with a firm structure and high acidity.

The Côtes du Roussillon Villages Lesquerde 2005 from Domaine Semper came from vines on granite soil inland in the northern part of Roussillon; it was savoury and had concentrated currant fruit with some minerality on the finish. The Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France 2005 from Domaine Rancy, also on grey schist, but inland and so warmer, was very spicy, with salty and mineral notes and lively acidity.

The Côtes du Roussillon Villages La Desirade 2005 Domaine Mas de Lavail (from vineyards near Maury on black schist and manganese), was intensely mineral, herbal, and tarry with a big concentration, alcohol and drying tannins.

From Les Aspres, the Côtes du Roussillon Cuvée  Lea 2005 Domaine Lafage from vines on pink and blue marble schist was the most aromatic, even floral, with herby cassis fruit.  And finally from Tautavel on argilo-calcareous soils the Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2004 from Domaine Fontanel was herbal and chalky becoming more mineral-like on the palate (the soil here also has black schist).

Of the Vins Doux Naturels wines we tasted, my notes indicated that I preferred the aged oxidative styles best, where the spirity flavours had been overtaken by complex secondary aromas. From Maury, the Vieille Reserve 1995 from Les Vignerons de Maury was a dark tawny colour with delicious toffee/raisin and coffee aromas and hints of minerals and great roasted nuts on the finish. The Banyuls Grand Cru Cuvée Christian Reynal 1995 Cave de l’Abbé Rous was oxidative, with stewed tea aromas that made the nose not the most appealing, but was wonderful on the palate with its raisin and coffee bean intensity and long refreshing finish.

Finally, the Rivesaltes Cassell Réal Hors D’Age from the Cellier Cassel Réal had had an initial aging in old foudres, followed by maturation in a ‘solera’. This was raisin-brown in colour with a wonderful concentration of caramelised toffee and nuts followed by a huge lasting finish, without any trace of spirit.

A great way to start our trip and oh, did someone mention lunch?

Text © Carolyn-Bosworth-Davies 2008

Photo © Alison Moller 2008

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La Coume del Mas & Mas Cristine by Vivienne Franks

After a typical Catalan lunch we finally arrived at Banyuls sur Mer. In fact, we had a glimpse of the sea en route to Coume del Mas, an estate that makes both dry wines from Collioure and sweet wines from Banyuls.

We were greeted by the winemaker and marketing man Andy Cook (pictured below), who explained the relationship between the two companies, Coume del Mas and Mas Cristine.

Philippe and Nathalie Gard who own the Coume del Mas Estate in Banyuls are also partners in a relatively new project, the Mas Cristine estate north of Collioure.

Wide variety

The Coume del Mas Estate comprises 11 hectares on slopes of 300 metres, and is a collection of 30 different parcels with a wide variety of soils, including schist, sand and decomposed clay. All work in the vineyards is done by hand with picks, rakes and muscle! The very poor schist soil with minimal water and the intense heat and average temperatures of over 35 degrees Celsius makes it difficult to gain phenolic ripeness in the fruit but ensures a delicate minerality to the final wine. The ‘Transmontana’ winds keep the vines very clean, with little need for spraying. Dry wines from this estate are marketed as AOC Collioure and the Vins Doux Naturels are sold as AOC Banyuls.

The Mas Cristine Estate has 10 hectares in a hilly area thick with forests and close to the sea. The soils here are mainly schist, with sand, clay, quartz and a little granite, but the vineyards are less steep than at Coume del Mas with an elevation of 250 metres, and are more manageable for the growers. The resultant wine has a freshness, minerality and finesse, due to the dominance of the schist soil. Dry wines from this estate form part of the AOC Côtes du Roussillon appellation and the sweet Muscat is labelled as Muscat de Rivesaltes AOC.

Tasting

Our first taste of the afternoon was the Mas Cristine 2007, a Côtes de Roussillon Blanc, which in this instance was a blend of 60% Roussanne and Marsanne, and 40% Grenache Gris and Carignan Blanc. This wine had been barrel fermented, then half had been matured in tank and the remainder had been left in new barrels prior to blending before bottling. This was a complex wine with floral and honeyed flavours and a rich texture so typical of many of the wines we subsequently tasted during the trip.

We then tasted the Folio 2007, a Collioure Blanc, a blend of 90% Grenache Gris and 10% Grenache Blanc. This wine had been whole bunch pressed then both fermented and matured in barriques. The reductive style of this wine demonstrated a modern approach to winemaking. The minerality was dominant here with fresh citrus flavours and a rich aniseed aroma.

The 2007 ‘Farniente’ Rosé from Collioure followed. This wine, a blend of 50% barrique fermented Mourvèdre and 50% Grenache made by the saignée method was delightfully fresh and crisp with masses of ripe red berry fruit flavours.

Andy gave us a sneak preview of the 2008 Mourvèdre currently in barrel - what fabulous fruit intensity!

The red Mas Cristine 2007 Côtes du Roussillon followed, this was a blend of 50% Grenache Noir and 50% Syrah. The wine spent 12 months on the lees in older barriques. Aromas of smoke, spice and intense red fruit are again matched with strong minerally overtones in this wine.

We returned to the Coume del Mas for the next wine, the 2007 ‘Schistes’ which was 100% Grenache. This was made in a more traditional style, destemmed, crushed, remontage twice a day for 3 weeks, then pressed and back into tank. This wine had a lovely balance of fruit and acidity. It was quite nervy with a stony, slightly bitter finish.  

The 2006 ‘Quadratur’ was next in line. This was a blend of 50% Grenache Noir, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Carignan. The grapes come from the steepest slopes of the estate, the wine had incredible intensity of fruit and after 14 months in oak there was a lot of structure evident as well as gamey and spicy notes. 

At last…the Sweeties!

Banyuls Blanc, a VdN from Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, matured in barrique and bottled in the Spring after harvest. This was a very delicate wine with a lovely balance of fruit and acidity.

Banyuls Galateo, a VdN from Grenache Noir had 7 months in barrique and had intense sweet raisiny aromas and flavours.

Quintessence 2006, another VdN from old vine Grenache Noir with 14 months in barrique demonstrated even more opulence and sweetness with great acidity and structure. 

 Finally…

Mas Cristine’s Muscat de Rivesaltes, with fresh grapey aromas from the 90% Muscat de Petits Grains and 10% Muscat d’Alexandrie was the perfect wine to finish this excellent introduction to Collioure and Banyuls.

The wines are available in the UK through Clarke Foyster Wines www.clarkfoysterwines.co.uk.

Text © Vivienne Franks 2008

Photo © Alison Moller 2008

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Domaine Vial-Magnières by Sandy Leckie

“Now” announces Eric, “we go to the seaside!”  Visions of soft golden sands are soon to be dispelled.  At this southern extremity of France, the Pyrenees fall steeply into the Mediterranean.  The coastline is rugged and today, the tramontane is blowing and it’s threatening to rain.

Our destination is Banuyuls-sur-Mer, where we are to visit Bernard Sapéras (pictured below) and family, owners of Domaine Vial-Magnières.

Banyuls, like its rather grander neighbours, Port Vendres and Collioure is a fishing town, although as we round a headland and catch first sight of the harbour, it is clear that there are more yachts than fishing boats moored there.

The yachts are battened down for the winter, their owners long since departed to the cities of the north and the town has a distinctly out-of-season look.

Quality & Diversity

The Sapéras family owns 10 hectares of vines in 8 different parcelles around Banyuls and is best known for the quality and diversity of its fortified wines.

The cellars are in the centre of the town but first we are to meet Bernard at one of the vineyard sites.

As the coach pulls slowly up the corniche in the general direction of the Spanish border, we spot him sitting patiently on a wall by the side of the road, well wrapped against the wind and rain.

Unfortunately, we are on the wrong side of the road and need to turn round.

Eventually, Jean-Luc, our driver, finds a point de vue on an especially precipitous stretch of road by a hairpin bend where he proceeds to execute an immaculate three-point turn to a call of “Hang on a minute lads, I’ve got a great idea” from a wag at the back of the coach.

This is a wild and wonderful place.

Terracing

The rock here is blue-veined grey schist.  The slope is close to 50% and the site has been carefully terraced.  A key feature is an oversized ditch or gulley.  It doesn’t rain much here but when it does, it pours, so it’s vital to channel the water to limit erosion. 

The vines on this plot, Bernard tells us, are Grenache – Blanc, Gris and Noir.  They are complantés and so the pickers have to make several passages through the vineyard at harvest time.  There are a few berries of Grenache Noir left on the vines.  Bernard encourages us to taste them – they are sweet, ripe and spicy.

Returning to the coach, we wind slowly back down to the shelter of the village. The family home, Clos Saint André, is an attractive villa in a walled garden in a quiet back-street.  The bougainvillea is still in full bloom around the gate. We are joined by Bernard’s two sons, who are to show us around.  “They speak better the English than me” he explains.  The cellars are not large and delightfully low-tech.  There is a wonderful aroma of old wine from casks literally oozing with sweet richness.  Casks for the oxidized styles are ranged on a rack just below the roof of the building.

Tasting

The tasting room is a very civilized place.  It is furnished much like a family dining room, with a large table in the middle.  There is a fine collection of drawings on the walls and classical music is playing.  We learn that Bernard was born in the same village as Gabriel Fauré and music is one of his passions.

We start the tasting with the Domaine’s table wines - the white Cuvée Armenn and the Red Cuvée les Espérades.  These are AC Collioure. The former is a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, the former dominating.  This was a combination that was to impress us on several occasions during our visit.  The 2007 is all white flowers and peaches.  The 2001 is salty, herby with notes of honey and beeswax.  Not unlike old Riesling in character. The red Cuvée les Espérades is 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah and 10% Carignan. The 2007 is ripe red fruit and spice.  The 2001 is a more complex wine, quite animal, meaty, gamey.

We then progress to the fortified wines, for which the Domaine is better known.

We start with white Banyuls, made from Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, which has been a speciality of the Domaine since 1986.  They produce two styles: the vintage Cuvée Rivage is a light, gently sweet, aperitif style, smelling and tasting of white peaches, pears and honey; the non-vintage Cuvée Rivage Ambré, which is matured in a solera system, is dry, full and rich - more a digestif style.

Our hosts then treat us to a selection of three of the red Banyuls styles they produce.  For these, the AC rules require that Grenache Noir is predominant in the blend, – a minimum of 50% for straight Banuyuls and 75% for grand cru.

We start with an example of the new style “Vintage” or “Rimage” wines.  Designed to appeal to a younger generation of wine drinkers, these are bottled early to preserve the ripe, red berry fruit aromas and flavours of the Grenache Noir.  The 2005 is bright ruby in colour, vibrantly fruity and softly sweet.

With the “Tradition 7 Ans”, you get what it says on the label – a traditional red Banuyuls aged oxidatively for seven years.  It is deep mahogany in colour and has aromas and flavours of candied peel and roasted nuts.

The “Cuveé André Magnières” is a Banyuls Grand Cru.  Produced only in the best vintages, this wine spends five years in oak before completing its ageing in bottle.  The 1998 is almost tawny in colour, rich, dry and spicy.  A wine that would go well with chocolate, we think.

Two rarities complete the tasting:-

Banyuls Rancio “Al Tragou” is typical of the highly oxidized style of wines made by previous generations in Banyuls.  It is aged for more than 20 years in oak.  A powerful wine that would work well at the end of a meal with strong cheeses perhaps or chocolate desserts?  Or just as a digestif with coffee and (if that’s your sort of thing) a cigar!

Le Ranfio Cino is a white wine elevé sous voile – matured under a veil of flor in the manner of a Fino Sherry.  To smell and taste however, it is more reminiscent of old Madeira.  Active volcanoes spring to mind.  It’s highly mineral, very dry, nutty, spicy, complex. A wine for aficionados!

Bernard tells us that he and his sons make wine for love and not for money.  We applaud them for this and tell them their passion shows in the quality of their wines.

Photos & text © Sandy Leckie 2008

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Linda Simpson

An early start got us to Terrats, south west of Perpignan at about 8.30 a.m. on a very cold morning.  We met with Denis Ferrer and Madame Ferrer and the tasting was hosted by Michel Maréchal of Mam Wines, who works with 15 estates throughout the region, concentrating on marketing and exports.

The wines are made by Denis Ferrer & Bruno Ribière.  In 1993 Denis (a fruit grower) and Bruno (a civil servant) established Domaine Ferrer-Ribière.  They have gained international recognition abroad and at home in Les Aspres.  Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres was elevated to AOC status in 2003, in order to recognise the area’s individuality and terroir.  The new AOC requires a high percentage of Syrah and Mourvèdre with a minimum of 12 months ageing.

In reality, many of the wines are produced under the VdP banner in order to give the winemaker complete flexibility to make single varietal wines and express terroir and varietal character. 

They are using organic practices and following the biodynamic philosophy, although awaiting full status. 

Vines have plenty of age with some 129 year old Carignan vines which we were fortunate to see on our way out of the village against the backdrop of the snow-capped Massif du Canigou.  They still produce 35hl/ha which is due to the care they lavish on the vines and the deep root systems giving minerality and structure to the wines.  So  the answer to the question from our chairman in Blighty, “What is the reason for the minerality of Roussillon wines?”  “Old vines and terroir plus a lot of care and attention” say these new wave wine makers in Terrats.

Denis Ferrer, Domaine Ferrer-Ribière. Photo © Susan Hulme 2008	Vines at Domaine Ferrer-Ribière. Photo © Susan Hulme 2008	Vines at Domaine Ferrer-Ribière. Photo © Susan Hulme 2008	View of the Massif du Canigou from Domaine Ferrer-Ribière. Photo © Susan Hulme 2008

The wines tasted were an interesting mix of VdP/single varietal, AOC Côtes du Roussillon blends and a few more in between.  They are innovative and dedicated to hand-crafting the wines rather than being slaves to the AOC system.  They showed well despite the chilled whites, reds and AWE members!

Tasting

VdP Grenache Blanc, Empreinte du Temps 2006 - £9.75 Yapp Brothers

100% Grenache blanc

The wine spends one year in new, 1 & 2 yr old barrels where some natural oxidation takes place (gradual and controlled)

A fat, rich, slightly oxidative style with a nutty dried fruit character on the palate. 

 

VdP Grenache Gris 2007

100% Grenache Gris

The Grenache Gris produces a wine with a slight pink hue and has a distinct stoned fruit and almond character and oily texture.

 

Domaine Ferrer Ribière 2008 Rosé

40% Syrah, 40% Grenache Gris, 20% Mourvedre

Dry, crisp vibrant red berry fruit. Crisp acidity with a herbaceous finish

 

Domaine Ferrer Ribière Rouge 2005

70% carignan, 30% Grenache noir, traditional maceration for 30 days

Supple tannins give way to an earthy savoury character with spice notes.

 

G de Pierres 2006

100% Grenache Noir, 30 hl/ha Traditional maceration over 28 days

Red berry with cherry notes, deep colour.  Will benefit from 2 – 3 years to fully integrate.

 

VdP Carignan Vignes Centenaires 2005

100% carignan, Vines 110 – 119 years old.  35 hl/ha.  

50% carbonic maceration/ 50% traditional maceration

Nose of seaweed, thyme and red berry fruit.  On the palate grippy tannins with red berry fruit character and licourice.

 

VdP Catalan, Empreinte du Temps 2006 - £9.95 Yapp Brothers

100% Carignan, 129 year old vines

Carbonic maceration for 12 days. Matured in large futs

On the nose subtle oak, herbaceous with hints of cherry and spice.

Supple silky tannins and a restrained elegant finish.  My favourite and carignan at its best.

 

Syrahnosaurus Rex 2005

100% Syrah, 20hl/ha

Dark berries, jammy with spice and pepper.  Integrated oak and fruit with a warming finish.

 

AOC Côtes du Roussillon 2005

30% Grenache Noir, 20% Carignan, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 35 hl/ha

On this occasion following the AOC blend produces a balanced and rounded wine.

 

AOC Côtes du Roussillon, Cana 2006 - £15.95 Yapp Brothers

40% Grenache Noir, 20% Mourvedre, 40% Syrah

A muscular wine with a savoury character and firm structure. Sweet blackberry, earth and spice.  This wine will need longer to mature and soften.

 

AOC Côtes du Roussillon, Selenae 2003

35% Grenache noir, 15% Carignan, 50% Syrah, as low as 12 hl/ha for some parcels.

This wine has great complexity with  a silky spicy palate and long finish

 

Selenae means moon and Denis calls this his unreachable dream.  He seems to be reaching the dream and touching the moon in many of the wines.  Hopefully the old man Carignan will continue to thrive under the Ferrer and Ribière watch.

 

Text © Linda Simpson 2008

 

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Sue Crabtree

Château La Casenove, Trouillas is a delightful family estate, some 10kms south of Perpignan, in the foothills of the Aspres region, Our charming host Étienne Montes was very welcoming and passionate about his wines. A professional photographer, he took over the running of the estate from his father in 1994, and was assisted by consultant Jean Luc Colombo from Cornas from 2001 to 2007. The partnership encouraged the use of a longer hang time, maceration and fermentation as well as learning, listening and tasting, rather than making a formula wine.

Old vines

The estate, owned by the Montes family for over 400 years, comprises 50ha of fully-planted vineyards on mainly clay/stony/gravel soils. The vineyards are in one block divided only by a road built nearly 40 years ago, unlike a number of producers we visited where their vineyards are a multitude of small plots scattered over a wider area. The majority of the vines are over 50 years old and some Carignan vines are 75 years old. Étienne’s father, Jacques, was the first in the region to plant Syrah in 1967 and Roussanne in the 1980s, with new planting now carried out every 10 years.

Whilst not organic – mildew presents an occasional problem - every care is taken. Hand-harvesting takes place with very careful selection and yields are around 24-28hl/ha with 4200vines/ha. The estate has moved away from perhaps the more traditional use of French oak, preferring instead to use Lithuanian oak (said to be softer) and sometimes 200hl brick tanks. Up to 2005, all red grapes were destemmed, but thereafter more stalks were left – Carignan matures well, but Grenache and Syrah stalks were found to be more vegetal. Here the grapes are picked at 14^o whereas elsewhere in the area, they are picked earlier at 12^o.

The varieties are typical of the Roussillon:

Whites -  Macabeu, Grenache Blanc, Tourbat (more usually sourced from Sardinia but known locally as Catalan Malvasia) and Roussanne.

Reds -  Grenache Noir, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvêdre.

The weather can be unpredictable – 2002 saw floods and 2003 drought -  so whites are not necessarily made each year; the grapes are instead used in the production of Rivesaltes wines. Red and fortified wines complete the portfolio. In 2005, the weather was very dry so the Muscat à Petits Grains were left on the vine (passerillé), picked, pasteurized and bottled 3 months later. The yield was down from 25hl/ha to 8hl/ha.

Tasting

All the wines reflected Étienne’s commitment and enthusiasm but the highlights were:

La Casenove 2000, produced from Macabeu and Tourbat, fermented and aged for a year in Lithuanian oak barrels, was crisp and elegant with subtle oak, limes and apples and a long finish.

Cuvée du Commandant François Jaubert 2004, named after Étienne’s great-uncle.

Made from 100% Syrah, picked at 20-25 hl/ha, from double guyot trained vines. Only 4-5,000 bottles are produced. The wine is elegant, velvet, well structured, with spice, pepper, juicy acidity, chalky tannins and a long finish.

Cuvée du Commandant François Jaubert 1994 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Carignan

Elegant, structured, huge black fruits.

Cuvée du Commandant François Jaubert 2000 –produced in what was described as the ‘best year’ - the vines had water and sun and didn’t suffer. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% each Grenache and Carignan, the wine had a farmyard nose, animal on the palate, huge juicy black fruits, smooth, lovely acidity and some grip – will go on for another 10 years.

S’Arena, a Vin de Table Muscat - -apricots, peaches, orange peel, tangy acidity – just wonderful!

Other wines tasted

Les Clares Grenache Blanc and Rousanne 50/50  Aged 2 years in Lithuanian oak 225l barrels. Very elegant, spicy, clean long finish

La Colomine  2005 Vin de Pays Catalan Grenache 40%, 50% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre

Produced in  a 200hl brick tank. Sold at 7 euros ex cellar. Touch of spice, black fruits, grippy tannins

La Garrigue 2005 Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Grapes are sourced from a rented estate in Passat. Longer maceration and fermentation – up to 1 month, contribute to an elegant, velvet texture with spice, pepper, liquorice and juicy black fruits. Ready to drink now or age.

La Garrigue 2004 grenache, Syrah and Carignan !4.5% Elegant, huge black fruits, spice, pepper, lovely long complex finish

Torrespeyres (burnt stones) 2004  Not made each year, sometimes 100% syrah.

Produced from 50%/50% Carignan, aged in 2 and 3 year oak for 2 years. Big tannins, huge black fruit, well structured, complex with coffee and chocolate notes.

Domaine St Luc 2000 Pla del Rei

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, velvety smooth, a less dominant wine, lots of black fruits, chalky, grippy tannins.

Rivesaltes Rouge 2001

Grenache Noir, mutage sur grain, 5 weeks maceration and fermentation, residual sugar 95g/l, potential alcohol 21%, bottled 2003. No oxidation – orange peel and raisins on the nose quite spirity.

Rivesaltes Blanc 2001, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu 60/40%. Still in barrel. The barrels are kept outside for 3 years and not topped up to allow for maximum oxidisation. – some 35% is lost due to evaporation. Sultanas, caramel, figs, mince pies aromas with a clean finish.

Muscat 2005 Muscat d’Alexandrie and Petits Grains - thought to be too hot in this vineyard so the grapes dry, but the consensus is that the variety is more elegant so producers are obliged to incorporate the variety in their wines.. A ‘peacock of flavours’ – thyme, orange peel, mint, lychees, not for ageing..

© Sue Crabtree 2008

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Our last visit of the day on Thursday 30th October was to Domaine Lafage. This vineyard is situated to the east of Perpignan and just 5 kilometres from Canet on the Mediterranean coast, between the mountain and sea. This domaine has more than 200 hectares of vineyard. There are two main estates, here at Domaine Lafage (160 hectares) and also at the recently acquired Château Saint-Roch (40 hectares) in the Maury Valley which is situated further inland and to the north-east of Perpignan. Additionally there are 40 further hectares in Les Aspres, located at the foot of the Pyrenees, thus enabling three different terroirs to be available to the winemakers.

The day of our visit was dry, slightly cloudy and not too chilly.

We were warmly greeted at Mas Miraflors by Monsieur Claude Sarda (pictured right), the Commercial Manager of the enterprise. He said ‘I talk a lot but don’t hesitate to ask me questions’.

The winery is 2 kilometres from Mas Miraflors, the tasting and bottling area (we declined the kind offer to visit the bottling area). The site is split by two roads and a roundabout which carry a good deal of traffic during the summer months and benefits the domaine with passing trade.

Exports

The domaine exports 70% of its production to more than 22 countries. Differently from most of the region’s wine growers its main export market is the USA with 250,000 bottles per annum. Additionally, they export to Germany, Belgium, France, Denmark, and of course the United Kingdom, working with two major UK companies, Bibendum for Lafage and Liberty Wines for Château Saint-Roch.

Interestingly Charles Rennie Mackintosh spent the last four years of his life in this area and through these contacts a cuvée has been selected for the Mackintosh Society which has been available for the past year, and there are ongoing plans for the involvement of Roussillon with further projects in the UK particularly with the Glasgow region.

Lafage shows its wines regularly in the UK, including at the London Wine Trade Fair where it joins with its distributors in promoting the wines.

Positive

In spite of the region’s recently publicised difficulties relating to prices and the possibility of some vineyards being destroyed, this vineyard has a positive outlook and so planted, just two years ago, fifteen hectares of white wine grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Grenache, Sauvignon and Vermentino. As they are able to irrigate this Vin de Pays area located close to the sea they have confidence that this recent planting will produce excellent results for their future in white wine production.

Château Saint-Roch will also continue in their production of red wines, and sweet white wines, and Maury Red and White and Les Aspres plan to continue with red wines.

New World influence

The owners of the domaine, Eliane Salinas-Lafage and Jean-Marc Lafage have worked in Australia, California, and South America so enabling them to bring some New World practices to the Old World. For example it was noted that their vines are tied differently to those of their neighbours. Additionally during this recent harvest they employed a New Zealander and an Australian winemaker to assist with their knowledge in the vinification process.

Roussillon is known for its red and sweet white wines, however in the past the dry white wines have been criticised for their lack of acidity, so nowadays the planting areas are carefully selected, and can be irrigated when used for Vin de Pays. So in the recent white grape planting, a satellite with GPS was used to select the site so as to be east-facing so sun was only received during the morning hours.

As this area is very sunny during the summer the hotter slopes are reserved for the red wines.

Mas Miraflors

The Mas Miraflors is a traditional fifteenth century Catalan building – used as a tasting room. The domaine has plans, along with the local municipality, to promote the local area for eco-tourism, encompassing a close-by medieval burial ground and providing a cycle route through the vineyards and surrounding areas to encourage visitors by bicycle. The tasting room offers wines from the two domaines, Lafage and Château Saint-Roch.

Monsieur Claude Sarda was an extremely knowledgeable guide to the wines and gave us a very instructive tasting for which we thank him. As well as his knowledge he provided us with a useful information pack.

Tasting notes:

Our tasting concentrated on the wines distributed and sold within the UK market via Liberty and Bibendum:

1. White Cuvée Centenaire Côtes de Roussillon 2007 (Bibendum) 13.5%.GBP 9.00. 80% Grenache grown within 2kms and 20% Roussanne, in new French Oak. Currently still in barrels and is due to be bottled in January.

2. Rosé Parfum des Vignes AOC Côtes du Roussillon (Bibendum) 13.5%. Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan. M Sarda explained that their sales of rose wines are growing. This wine was designed for exotic food, curries, paella, spicy dishes.

3. Red AOC Côtes du Roussillon Cuvée  Authentique 2006 (Bibendum) GBP 9.00. A blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan, coming from three different terroirs, without oak, to illustrate the acidity within the Roussillon area.

These first three wines are sold through Bibendum to the restaurant trade rather than supermarkets.

4. Red Côtes du Roussillon Special Reserve Charles Rennie Mackintosh 2005, selected for the Mackintosh Society (Bibendum). A blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan, also without oak. Specifically designed to be easy to drink, therefore easy to sell with a target retail price in the restaurant as a house wine at around £8 to £9. In 2008 a planned production of 2,000 to 3,000 bottles.

5 Red Vin des Pays des Côtes Catalan. Single grape variety 100% Grenache Noir from the Terroir des Aspres. Not currently sold in the UK but offered for tasting as a wine of interest. Sold in the USA, Germany and Belgium. Just 30% oak. There is a company policy of not too much oak in their Cuvée s. This wine received 90 points from Robert Parker.

The domaine anticipates a visit this December by the right hand man of Robert Parker.

6. Red from Château Saint-Roch, Côtes du Roussillon Village 2006 (Liberty) Grenache Noir 65%, Syrah 30% and Carignan 5% blend. With 20% of New French Oak. Parker gave 92 points to this wine.

Discussion on the local use of Lithuanian Oak. Here some American Oak is used, but not preferred as it is found to be slightly toasty. French oak is preferred.

7 Red back to Lafage Wines: Cuvée  Lea AOC Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres 2006. Traditional blend of Grenache, Carignan with a little Syrah. Oak of 30-40%. Not currently listed with Bibendum. Silver Medal Winner Paris 2008.

8. Red from Château Saint-Roch Kerbuccio 2006 (Liberty) Blend of Grenache Noir 40%, Syrah 40% and Mourvedre 20%. With French oak of 50%. Coupe de Coeur of the Guide Hachette 2009. Just 5,000 bottles produced.

Kerbuccio – old Roman name for the castle at the entrance of the Maury Valley.

To finish, as everywhere within the Roussillon area, a sweet wine and introducing a new range, created by Jean-Marc Lafage with Bibendum and new specially designed labels, to include the following sweet wines: Red Maury, Golden Ambre, and Muscat de Rivesaltes.

Text © David Luck 2008

Photos © Susan Hulme MW 2008

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Calce by Quentin Sadler

Our trip to the Roussillon was a real joy as the region is delightful, very beautiful and scenic and offers a glimpse of Catalan culture that is quite unlike the rest of France. Everywhere the snow-capped mountains provide a stunning backdrop.

On the Friday morning our coach wound round the torturous road to Calce, the soils here are chalky in the main - hence the name Calce, from calcaire, but there is also some schist. This quiet unassuming village was to provide a real highlight to our trip.

At a casual glance it just appeared to be a Rousillon wine village like any other. It doesn't boast its own AC and it doesn't make a unique type of wine, its influence is more subtle and it's importance harder to define. Quite simply it boasts an incredible array of the great producers of the region. Some, such as the local cooperative are perfectly normal and traditional, if rather good and have been here for decades. Others are less normal and are newer operations created by new arrivals to the region that were attracted to the area by the work and example of Gérard Gauby at Domaine Gauby.

Amongst their number you have winemakers originally from Burgundy, the Loire, Germany and South Africa. Some sought out this place and this terroir, others washed up here and never left. After just one morning here I know how they felt, the scenery is dramatic and beautiful and there is something deeply attractive about a group of people dedicated to crafting great and interesting wines and creating what feels like an interdependent commune in order to achieve it. They appear to be at one with their landscape and there is something of the feel of a religious sect about Calce, indeed something almost Messianic about some of the wine makers. In fact we were told that many consider themselves to be Monsieur Gauby's disciples.

We were incredibly fortunate that Eric Aracil and Susan had organised for a group of producers to set up a tasting in the town hall. We were doubly fortunate that afterwards we joined these lovely people in the most wonderful lunch of salad, fresh bread, charcuterie and cheese. It was an occasion that smacked of the very best of France and left a great feeling of camaraderie, of enjoyment and passions shared.

 

Some of the many of the wine highlights for me were:

Domaine Gauby

Domaine Gauby has been owned by many generations of the Gauby family, but until Gérard Gauby came along with new ideas the grapes were always sent to the local co-operative. Gérard's first vintage was the 1985 and now it is his son Lionel who carries on the crusade to create wines in harmony with their surroundings by organic and biodynamic methods.

We tasted 2 of his wines and they were a great starting point:

 

Domaine Gauby Vielles Vignes Blanc 2002 (en magnum)

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

This 80% Macabeu (Viura) with 20% field blend of Grenache Gris and Blanc was a beautiful wine with a lively minerality and a creamy texture, integrated oak and a freshness that belied its age.

 

Domaine Gauby Muntada 2006

A.C. Côtes de Roussillon Villages

45% Grenache, 45% Carignan and 10% Syrah with vines up to 115 years old.

Muntada is the local name for the limestone and schist soils on the estate.

The lovely herbal and wild flower qualities and pure raspberry fruit had survived 22 months in a range of old barriques and foudre, plus 10% in new oak, to produce a vivid, fresh and lively wine with a smooth texture, touches of cream and supple tannins.

 

Domaine Gauby wines are available from: Richards Walford

 

Domaine Olivier Pithon

Olivier grew up in the Loire steeped in the culture of wine; his older brother is Jo Pithon from Layon. He met Gérard Gauby in 2000 via his brother and immediately knew that he had found where he wanted to be and what he wanted to be - a biodynamic wine grower and winemaker.

His wines were extraordinary, amongst others we tasted:

 

Domaine Pithon Cuvée Laïs 2007

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

50% Macabeu (Viura) with a 50% field blend of Grenache Gris and Blanc and named for a Jersey cow in Catalan.

It has lovely fresh aromas of rosemary, fennel and thyme with a smoky undercurrent and a creamy and yoghurt texture. The mouth-feel was soft and delicate with clean acidity and freshness and a long mineral finish.

 

Domaine Pithon Le Pilou 2006

Made from 100 year old Carignan vines, Olivier only produced 600 bottles of this cuvée. The nose of black cherry, chocolate, hot rocks, herbs and savoury charcuterie was enticing. The palate was juicy and supple with smoky fine grain tannins and a silky feel; it was superbly integrated and complete wine with a fresh finish.

 

Domaine Olivier Pithon is available from: Les Caves de Pyrene 

and from HG Wines Ltd.26 St John Street London EC1M 4AY

Le Pilou is £13.55 & Cuvée Laïs is £13.55

 

Domaine Matassa

Tom Lubbe is the guiding spirit behind Mattasa and he somehow sums up Calce, a wandering South African who arrived at Domaine Gauby some years ago, caught the biodynamic bug, fell in love with Calce, fell in love with Gérard Gauby’s daughter Nathalie, married her and settled down to create a new domaine in partnership with his wife and Sam Harrop. The wines were astonishing, not always approachable, sometimes a bit demanding, and often full as he says of “reductive funk”, but all his wines repay tasting:

 

Domaine Matassa Blanc 2006 (en magnum)

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

70% Grenache Gris with 30% Macabeu (Viura).

Yet another stunning Grenache Gris based white with a divine nose of wild flowers and a palate that was clean and elegant with a mineral purity a rounded texture and great complexity.

 

Domaine Matassa Cuvée Romanissa 2006

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

70% Grenache Noir, 15% Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

This cuvée, whilst not his top red, is quite wonderful and fascinated me as the name of the parcel of vines, Romanissa, is a living folk memory that the land was once awarded to a Roman soldier on his retirement from the Legions. A vibrant fresh raspberry nose with flashes of black pepper and wild flowers, supple and juicy in the mouth with a fresh, vibrant feel, real elegance and smooth tannins on the finish.

 

Domaine Matassa is available from:

HG Wines Ltd.26 St John Street London EC1M 4AY

Domaine Matassa Romanissa is £17.65 (and from Majestic @ £14.99)

Domaine Matassa Blanc is £21.40

 

Domaine de L’Horizon

Thomas Teibert is a German who found himself drawn to Calce and to biodynamic practices. His domaine is new, but that does not show in the quality of the wines that are all made from old vine stock. Thomas only labels his wines as Vin de Pays as he champions purely the traditional grapes of the region and has no interest in interlopers such as Syrah. The estate is almost completely biodynamic, but he cannot yet afford to compost everything as that would cost him €40,000 just to buy it in and then he needs to hire some help to work it in.

 

Domaine de L’Horizon Blanc 2007

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

67% Macabeu (Viura) of between 50 and 80 years old with the rest a field blend of equally old Grenache Gris and Blanc.

The nose was herbal and honeyed with a clean, saline note. The palate was elegant and rounded with a gently creamy mouth-feel and a clean mineral finish and was beautifully integrated. The wine was aged for 11 months in new oak, ultra light toast, in vats that varied in size between 500 and 2000 litres. 

 

Domaine Padié

Jean-Philippe Padié is a delightful man and great company who makes some quite incredible wines. He is yet another outsider, from Burgundy this time, who has come to Calce in order to make wines that would possibly be less understood elsewhere. Some of what he did was so interesting and fun that sometimes he appeared to be a French Randall Grahm, who could resist a wine named Fleur de Cailloux (Flowers from Stone) or Ciel Liquide9liquid Sky)? As with Matassa, this uncompromising way of doing things does not always make for approachable or enjoyable wines, but when it does it produces wines of great beauty:

 

Domaine Padié Milouise

Vin de Table (actually 2007, but a vintage is not allowed)

50% Grenache Gris and 50% Grenache Blanc.

Jean-Philippe has two 600 liter barrels, one named Milou after his grandfather and one named Louise after his grandmother. This wine is named after both and is both barrels blended together. It is a Vin de Table because the wild yeast took a whole year to ferment and the authorities had no patience with the still fermenting samples when the Vin de Pays status was applied for!

This was a great wine with a succulent texture balanced by the hallmark minerality and a clean lemon rind acidity. It is elegant, pure and quite wonderful.

 

Domaine Padié Calice

Vin de Table (actually 2007, but a vintage is not allowed)

100% Carignan.

I am not often keen on Carignan, but this unassuming wine was a delight to drink, very soft, very juicy, very supple, and quite delicious and easy drinking in all the best ways.

 

Château Lafforgue

Noël Lafforgue was representing his family domaine which has produced wine in Calce for centuries and was once a castle of the Catalan Kingdom of Mallorca and carries on making traditional wines of the region including an impressive array of Vin Doux Naturel. Whilst not biodynamic they don’t use weed killers and they do use organic manure.

 

Château Lafforgue Muscat Sec 2008

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

A delightful straightforward wine that was fresh and lively with a crisp citrus character and clean acidity.

 

Château Lafforgue Cuvée de Vieux Porche 2007

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

40% Carignan, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Grenache.

The Old Porch blend is a lovely wine with a richly fruity nose dominated by the Cabernet’s cassis character. Blackcurrants dominate the palate too with a smooth, creamy ripe feel and firm, chalky tannins.

 

Les Vignerons du Château Calce

The town cooperative is named for the local thirteenth century castle and it dates back to 1932. It is fairly small with something like 60 members, but has a good reputation for quality that was borne out by the wines:

 

Château de Calce 2007

A.C. Côtes de Roussillon Blanc

60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Macabeu (Viura).

This was a very clean, well made and mineral dry white that is sold locally at €3 and knocks the spots off many more expensive whites from other regions.

 

Château de Calce 2005

A.C. Côtes de Roussillon Villages

30% Grenache Noir, 30% Carignan, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre.

A lovely simple wine that was very enjoyable, the bright, vibrant fruit and smooth tannins were enhanced by the Carignan being fermented by maceration carbonique. Again, this was a great value for money wine that I would happily drink every day if I lived there as they do not make enough for export.

 

The cooperative is also the source of two exciting wines for Marks and Spencer that are made by Gerd Stepp at the Château de Clace with input from Mattasa’s Tom Lubbe:

 

Les Orris Rouge 2007

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

60% Grenache Noir and 40% Syrah, this is a stylish and elegant wine with well balanced oak and good acidity.

 

Les Orris Blanc 2007

Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalans

This lovely blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu is my favourite of the pair, offering aromas of herbs and lemon rind with a slightly creamy palate showing a hint of oxidation and resinous oak, fresh grapefruit and a long clean finish.

 

Les Orris wines are available from Marks and Spencer @ £7.99

 

It is nice to know that at least one of the stunning white wines of the area is widely available in the UK at an affordable price.

 

There is no doubt that Calce is a great area for winemaking, the evidence was right there before our eyes, and it seemed that the excitement, sense of purpose, willingness to experiment  and the sheer joy of wine had rubbed off on all the producers that we met. I thank them all and look forward to keeping an eye on these exciting wines over the years.

 

 

Text © Quentin Sadler 2008

Photos © Alison Moller 2008

 

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Domaine de Rancy by Michelle Cherutti-Kowal

It was like something out of a movie - a typically charming French village quiet after lunch with barely a person to be seen on its tiny alleys and roads.

Suddenly, a modern white bus pulls in, spilling out a bunch of English wine anoraks filling the quiet street with chatter and the click of the odd camera. After a few minutes and some rattling of clapboard shutters, a man appeared in a second storey window - Yes we were not lost - Domaine de Rancy was in the village. In fact, the cellars, winery and maturation room were under the village.

The Domaine was established in 1920 in the village of Latour de France by the Verdaguer family. With over 360 barrels of vin doux naturels (VDN) aging below the streets of the village, the Domaine is synonymous with the wines of Rivesaltes.

There are 16ha of vineyards (of which 11.5ha are dedicated for VDN) located in the Agly valley in the communes of Latour de France, Montner, Estagel and Tautavel. The soils are typical of the regions; schist and chalky-clay producing an average yield of 20hl/ha. The varietals are also regional but not typical with large plantings of old Macabeu vines often co-planted with both Grenache blanc and gris, supplemented with old Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache noir and Syrah.

Long history

Although Domaine de Rancy has a long history of producing wine, their production was limited to vin doux naturels, with grapes sold to the local co-operative. With the renovation of the winery and the next generation of Verdaguers joining the family business, the Domaine has started to produce a range of red wines.  

Our tasting began with the red wines made from typical Roussillon blends.  They exhibited rich dense black fruit layered with hints of the garrigues and anise. The 2006 Vins de pays was the exception, made from 100% old vine Carignan aged in a combination of vats and barrels. This wine was earthy and meaty with a background of black brambles and spice surrounded by chewy tannins. A big wine that could benefit from longer bottle age.

As good as the reds were, the stars of the tasting were the Rivesaltes. We were privileged to have a vertical tasting started one of 4yrs average age and proceeding to vintage Rivesaltes; 1996, 1985 and 1959 finishing with a speciality of the Domaine - a 1991 Rivesaltes Sec.

All wines were made from 95% old vine Macabeu and 5% Grenache blanc and gris and aged below the village, in older barrels with no topping up.  Each year, 3-4% of volume is lost during the maturation process - those lucky angels!

Tasting Notes

Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes 4 years

Almost a cognac hue.  The nose smelt of orange peel, saltwater toffee and sweet spice. The palate was sweet and thick but balanced with refreshing acidity. The wine tasted of burnt sugar, dried ginger sultanas and finishing with orange peel.

Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes 1996

Tawny colour. Aromas of molasses, treacle with green tea notes. The palate was sweet and mouth filling with baked apples, nutmeg and burnt butter.

Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes Cuvée Lucie 1996

Just bottled in January 2008. Chestnut highlights and a nose of wood smoke, coffee and treacle. Flavours of sweet spice, dried oranges, roasted hazelnuts and hints of aniseed surrounded by acidity.

Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes 1959

Very dark brown. Fragrance was savoury with salted black liquorice, marmite and treacle. The palate was a touch spirity, with flavours of rancid walnuts dripped in molasses and nutmeg with a lingering finish of tea leaves.

Domaine de Rancy Rivesaltes Sec 1991

Tawny with yellow rim. The nose reflected roasted nuts, liquorice and molasses. The palate was dry, tasting of prune d’agen, nutmeg and finished with dried bitter oranges.

Text © Michelle Cherutti-Kowall 2008

Photo © Alison Moller 2008

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Alison Moller

The last visit of the day is a tough one with tired bodies and jaded palates, but the last of the entire trip is even harder! However Eric Aracil had, with the careful planning that characterised this trip, provided an antidote to that.

In the dramatically sited village of Tautavel we were greeted by the young, vibrant and enthusiastic Agnès and Rafael Graugnard (pictured below). Originally from the Rhône, they had studied at Montpellier and gained experience at Santa Rita in Chile and in South Africa, before settling in Tautavel. They made their first vintage in 2003 using bought-in grapes and a rented cellar, and named it Arcadie after the playground of the gods.

Arcadie is principally the responsibility of Agnès while Rafael, whose wines we also tasted, is the wine maker for the co-operative in Tautavel.

In 2007 they bought 5ha of the vineyards whose grapes they had already been using. They are sited near the villages of Estagel and Montner and have both schist, on which the Grenache Noir is planted, and limestone clay on which Syrah and Mourvèdre do well. They also grow Lladoner Perlut, Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc on both terroirs. Although Agnès and Rafael try to work as organically as possible they do have to use some insecticides and treatments for botrytis. Their average yields are just 20 hl/ha.

No Carignan

There is no Carignan in their cépage as Agnès had the preconception that no good wine was ever made from this grape. She said her local colleagues have been taking great delight in proving her wrong! However she is very happy to be making a Côtes de Roussillon which is a bit different. Arcadie produces 10,000 bottles of red and 5,000 bottles white per year.

The philosophy in the winery is to work as naturally as possible with no cultured yeasts and no fining, thus allowing the terroir and the vintage to express themselves.

Wine making

The whites are called “Alba” and made from 80% Grenache Gris and 20% Grenache Blanc which are co-planted on both terroirs. After pressing, the clear juice is put into barrels which are 1/3 new, 1/3 one year old and 1/3 two years old. The must then ferments at temperatures of 22-25°C which Agnès feels gives a more characterful wine than the traditional wine white temperatures. The wine stays in barrel for one year during which time battonage takes place according to the needs of each individual barrel. The wine is sulphured after the malolactic fermentation and then again just before bottling.

Agnès pointed out that the legal limit is 210 mg/l and their wine is typically 40 mg/l.

Tasting

There then followed a fascinating vertical tasting starting with the 2007, bottled just ten days before, and ending with the 2004. As the wines matured the herbal, garrigue elements in the wine developed a delicious honeyed, barley sugar flavour. It was easy to imagine how well they would match with sea bass – which was Eric’s recommendation.

The black grapes, like the white, were all hand-harvested. The entire crop was destemmed and a three-to-five week maceration took place – the 2008 was still on its skins. During this time délestage – a gentle form of rack and return – takes place.

Firstly we tasted a tank sample of Lladoner Pelut whose searing acid certainly woke our palates up! Next was a new venture into a fruity, early and easy-drinking wine which they have named TP3 after the French Army Truck which sits outside the winery. This wine was made from 40% Lladoner Pelut, 30% Grenache Noir and 30% Syrah, all tank-fermented and matured. The really interesting tasting was the vertical of the Côtes de Roussillon Village back to 2003. All wines were 40% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, 10% Lladoner Pelut and 10% Mourvèdre. Most of the reds were characterised by vivid fruit, ripe tannins and refreshing acidity which added up to a delicious whole summed up in one word – balance. One member of the group thought the 2006 was the best we tasted on the trip and another went back next day with his car to buy!

This was a hard act to follow but Rafael’s sweet wine did a good job. First he gave us his Rivesaltes Granat named Torre del Far after the lookout tower which guarded the village. The Grenache Noir fortified wine is kept in full barrels so there is no oxidation and it was a wine with astonishing purity of fruit – for me raspberries and blackberries. Lastly we had an example of the oxidised style - a 1994 Ambré Tautavel produced to celebrate 80 years of the co-operative in 2007. This wine went through a solera system and had lovely caramel and warm spice aromas. Rafael modestly said it was easy to make – you just need time and good barrels! I think to that one must add care, dedication and passion and those qualities for me summed up all their wines.

Tasting notes:-

Whites

2007 Alba Côtes de Roussillon Blanc

80% Grenach Gris, 20% Grenach Blanc 14%

Floral nose. Palate of herbs of the garrigue. Not conventionally fresh – more fat. Delicious now but will keep. Best with food

2006

A bit more humidity this year other wise weather much the same as 2007. Honeyed notes developing along with a mineral/salty/savoury impression. Floral – gorse and broom with stem ginger on the finish. Impression of sweetness comes from the barrels – is less than 2 g/l.

2005

Harvested a week too early so more mineral, less ripe with almond notes.

2004

First to show age on colour – more golden. Barley sugar, figs and peach on the nose.

A savoury palate with spice, yellow fruits and honey. Good acid – summer was cooler.

Reds

TP3 Côtes de Roussillon 2007 Arcadie 14%

A simple but well made wine with pleasing  black fruit  and cherry cake on the palate.

Arcadie Côtes de Roussillon Villages 2006

40% Grenach Noir, 40% Syrah, 10% Lladoner Pelut and 10% Mourvèdre  14.5%

Aromas of rich, ripe black fruits. Lovely balance of fruit, acid and ripe tannins.

2005

Lovely fresh fruity nose but very hard tannins. Tannins not as ripe as in other years and pressed too early.

2004

Much more cassis on this one with menthol aromas. Tannins a bit rustic.

2003

Good fruit but slightly drier and less attractive tannins. Agnès felt she had taken the wine out of barrel too early and should have waited for time to soften the tannins.

Text © Alison Moller 2008

Photo of Agnès and Rafael Graugnard © Susan Hulme MW 2008

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The Penley Wine Experience  - an interview with Kym Tolley by Paul Quinn

Tuesday 11th November 2008 at The Queen Inn, Great Corby.

Kim Tolley established Penley Estate in Coonawarra, Australia in 1988 when he bought the land with his two sisters. The name Penley comes from two of the most famous estates of Australia: Kym's mother Judith is a Penfold and his grandfather was Reg Tolley who was very active in the iconic brand of Tolley Scott Tolley; hence Penley.

I had helped Nick Yates from Moreno Wines (Penley's UK Agent) to hold a wine dinner in the little village of Great Corby near Carlisle. I had been a great fan of Coonawarra Cabernet for a long time and was getting the chance to meet one of the best winemakers from that area of Australia. I had read many complimentary articles on his wine from James Halliday and Mathew Jukes amongst others.

PQ - What are the biggest threats/challenges to the Australian wine industry at present?

KT - Shortage of water due to the drought in Australia that has affected not just the wine industry but most agricultural crops.  This year’s rain fall was enough to help the vines but not enough to fill the dams/reservoirs.  Another big problem is oversupply;  20 years ago when Penley was in its beginnings there were only 70 registered wine companies and now there are 2,750.     

PQ - How are you going to cope with these threats?

KT - The industry will need to get smaller, more regulation is needed and we need to plant in the right areas. A lot of bulk suppliers will go out of business as water gets more expensive and the drought continues.

PQ - What is special, different or unique about his wines that would make consumers want to buy them?

KT - Being from Coonawarra and grown on the Terra Rossa soil is a great selling point for Cabernet as a lot of people know about the region. The temperature difference between day and night (from 30 degrees during the day it can go down to 12 degrees at night), means the wines can develop the fruit characters slowly and make the wines more refined.

PQ - How important is wine education to promotion of his wines and wine in general?

KT - Wine education is essential. It can take uncertainty out of buying a bottle of wine and can show them (the consumer), that whatever wines are liked by an individual is ok as it is their own taste buds that are important. My job is half winemaking and half education. Through staff training and PowerPoint presentations, I can get a new generation of wine drinkers to a slightly higher level of knowledge. One customer in London lists only Penley wines, as when he was starting out in the wine trade, he came to one of my tutored tastings; it was his first experience of tasting higher quality Australian wines.

PQ - How can organisations like ours help them?

KT - By educating new people above the age of 18 about wine and by showing masterclasses in events where you can talk through the wine in the glass. Telling consumers how the aroma got into the glass from the soil, grape variety, region and winemaking techniques.

PQ - What do you think about wine awards?

KT- I think they are very important in Europe for selling Australian wines. People want to be reassured about what they are buying. For example, getting a gold medal at the Houston Rodeo Show in America will sell out all of local agent's allocation of Penley wine.

Tasting notes

Penley Sparkling Pinot Noir 2007

Light, fresh easy drinking with ripe strawberry aromas.  More of a fun wine to drink. Accompanied by canapes.

Penley Over the Moon Rosé 2007 (Pinot, Merlot,Cabernet)

Kym and his wife were childhood sweethearts in 1969 and met up again 34 years later on 28th May 2003. He proposed to her in Provence in 2004 whilst drinking a bottle of Provence Rosé and later named this wine after her. They have been married 12 months.

Light salmon in colour, light easy drinking dry rose with lots of red berries aromas. Served with Guinea Fowl Terrine, Damson Chutney and Homemade Bread.

Penley Chardonnay 2005

Off-dry, full bodied with lots of tropical fruit aromas and a touch of sweet oak. Served with Poached Fillet of Lemon Sole with sauce Veronique.

Penley Hyland Shiraz 2005

Dark purple concentration, this is an oaked wine with lots of spicy blackcurrant and peppery mulberry with a touch of eucalyptus mint with a minerally spicy finish. Matched with Pan-fried Loin of Venison with Wild Mushrooms and Spinach served with a Juniper Berry Jus, Mashed Potatoes and Roasted Winter Root Vegetables (Parsnips, Carrot and Swede), Broccoli and Braised red cabbage.

Capricho de Goya (Not Kym Tolley’s)

Lots of sweet mocha aromas with a touch of Madeira-style ageing on nose. Served with a duo of Rich Chocolate Mousse in a Bitter Chocolate Cup, Passion Fruit Panna Cotta and Strawberry Shortbread Tower with Strawberry Mousse.

Penley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Complex wine with mineral aromas overlaid with cassis, dark berries and a sweet spicy finish. Accompanied by Ripe Gorgonzola and Birdoswald Cheese with Carr’s Table Water Biscuits, Celery, Grapes and Home Made Chutney.

© Paul Quinn 2008

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AWEsome Wine by Richard Bampfield MW  
1891 Sercial Madeira (Jose Gomes Henriques Araujo)

I like to serve old Madeira at certain corporate events where they want something special because older wines from the 19th century are not only available but also taste much better than equivalents from other classic wine areas.  I source these from Patrick Grubb MW, who has the most astonishing selection, and consequently receive a treasured invite to his annual tasting where he shows the sorts of old Madeira that otherwise I can only dream about. 

This particular wine would not actually be a good candidate for a consumer event because the acidity was typically high and I guess one would describe it as an acquired taste.  But what a taste.  Aromas that read like a roll call from a dessert menu and a palate of such intensity and penetration that it was, literally, unspittable.  One of the most riveting wines I have ever drunk.

© Richard Bampfield MW 2008

 Christies Tasting of wines from the Hospices de Beaune  by Richard Bampfield MW  
With the Trois Glorieuses coming up later this month, Christies held a tasting to show a few wines from recent vintages, cellared and bottled by the Hospices themselves.  These wines have not always enjoyed the most glorious of reputations and, on this showing, the wines although sound did not always show the elegance and finesse expected of Burgundy's top appellations. 

Changes are being made and one can expect the quality to improve further in coming years. 

In the meantime, if you are looking to serve Hospices wines, it may be safer to seek out bottles cellared by Negociants who have bought at the auction rather than wines from the Hospices themselves.  The label is the same in both cases, with the exception of the "Elevé par...." section.

© Richard Bampfield MW 2008

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AWE Member Updates

Anyone interested in becoming a member of the AWE should contact our membership secretary Alison Moller:

Email - molleralison@yahoo.co.uk

Tel: 07783 723728

Address: Little Mead, Langley Lower Green, Saffron Walden, Essex CB11 4SB

Prospective members should hold the WSET Diploma or equivalent.

Please note the administrative office telephone number has changed to 01753 882320. See below for full details.
 

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AWE Inspiring News
This is the newsletter of the Association of Wine Educators. Opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Association.

Editor: Susan Hulme MW

Many thanks to all of our contributors.

AWE Administrative Office:
Andrea Warren
Scots Firs, 70 Joiners Lane,
Chalfont St Peter,
Bucks, SL9 0AU
Tel/Fax: 01753 882320  

E-mail: admin@wineeducators.com 
Web Site: www.wineeducators.com 

© AWE Inspiring News 2008

No part of this newsletter may be reproduced without permission.

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